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Hi all. I have an 04 crf250x with a athena 280 kit went for a ride and battery died was able to kick start but a week later went to start again and nothing.

Had a look at home and no spark. Took it to a mechanic who charged me $160 and said the pulsar coil/ignition pulse generator was bad, he recommended sending it off to get fixed and have the stator rewound while at it, probable cost for them to do would have been upwards of $400-$500.

I took it back and bought an aftermarket one off ebay for $140 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stator-And- ... gyE8XnVEQr8

Put the new stator/pulsar coil in and nothing, no spark. Not sure if its related but just before it stopped the horn was working intermittently and now doesnt work at all and neither does the headlight. So now Im back to square one and was going to test peak voltages etc.

Had a look at the wiring diagram and thought it may be the regulator rectifier,someone else has said CDI, I have no idea where to start.

Any ideas would be helpful.

Welcome to the site !!

I am guessing by your description that this bike has been "Dual Sported" ..... if so my first guess since you mentioned the other components not working or working intermittently would be the switch cluster that I am guessing houses the Kill Switch , Light Switch and Horn ... if so , that is where you need to look first ... you can do Continuity Tests , to see if the connection is open or closed with the kill switch/button in each position ........ , or you could simply unplug that switch altogether and sit on the bike and start it , then if it does start you can hold both brakes on , with no throttle and pull the clutch in , put it in gear and slowly let out the clutch , holding both brakes firmly and letting the bike stall ..

Then you can go about finding a replacement switch ..... I also question the "mechanic" suggesting you take it somewhere to get it fixed ... that does not sound like a competent motorcycle mechanic to me , so I question his knowledge and his diagnostic ability , let alone his mechanical ability if he was unwilling to actually perform the work himself , which is not that hard to do , as long as you have the correct Flywheel Puller for your bike and a few simple sockets and a replacement gasket .....

Thanks Jim, will test the kill switch, out of interest with the kill switch on should the bike still crank?

As for the mechanic I did ask him just to diagnose only and that I would do the work, just happy that I did otherwise I would be even more out of pocket but it may be a case that I need to take it to a pro, so will end up paying anyway.

Hi dan574,

That is the beauty of the forum here, is there is a lot of knowledge and different ideas that can lead to solving your problem as I said last night.
The likes of Jim and Neil have been doing the bike thing for a long time so between us all we generally can help work things out.

Still build yourself a peak voltage adapter in case you need it in future.

Jim,
He is in Melbourne so this is Australian spec bike.
There is the extra loom for the ADR stuff to make it road legal.

Hi dan574,

That is the beauty of the forum here, is there is a lot of knowledge and different ideas that can lead to solving your problem as I said last night.
The likes of Jim and Neal have been doing the bike thing for a long time so between us all we generally can help work things out.

Still build yourself a peak voltage adapter in case you need it in future.

Jim,
He is in Melbourne so this is Australian spec bike.
There is the extra loom for the ADR stuff to make it road legal.

I was wondering , and that makes more sense , his writing accent did not show , so I figured he was over here with a Dual Sport kit , but no worries , hopefully the source of the issue will be resolved with minimal out of pocket

Thanks Jim, will test the kill switch, out of interest with the kill switch on should the bike still crank?

As for the mechanic I did ask him just to diagnose only and that I would do the work, just happy that I did otherwise I would be even more out of pocket but it may be a case that I need to take it to a pro, so will end up paying anyway.

Dan , as far as I know (at least here anyways) the clutch should have a switch on it for starting , as long as the clutch is pulled the bike should crank , with or without the kill switch engauged , at least that is how it works on my 2020 CRF450R and my 06 450X , the E-Start is not connected to the kill switch .. Hopefully they carried over that part of the system down under ...

Was the battery load tested? The battery is integral to the electronics making connection circuits.
Also check ground connections - really check them.

Thanks everyone, no battery not load tested will look at that as well, thanks Jim and Ray, will throw a few aussie terms in next time

So isn't there a relay behind the headlight that sometimes goes faulty. Wonder if it switches power from the battery.

Hey Jim do you have a decent circuit diagram you can post up?
It will mostly be the same for the running of the bike.

Not sure if we even got a bigger stator out here.

Yep use petrol in a sentence and mention the roo in the garden near the taipan nest.

This is about the best I can do Ray , hopefully things are the same , and hopefully he can decipher his from this , but this is for a AUS 450X .... If needed I can post up a U.S. 250X Diagram from one of my manuals , but it will not have the same circuits as the AUS bike obviously ..

thanks all, load tested the battery which failed but tried another good battery with no luck, will look it over the weekend

Thanks for the update

Hi guys, I am new to this site.....I thought i would continue from Dan and the no spark issue seeing as though i am the new owner of this bike. Still no spark ?