[chadman]

I have been having a hard time starting my bike when it is cold the last few weeks. Once I do get is started and let it warm up, it seems to start ok. I pulled the head cover off today and checked the valves and one intake valve is way off. I was not even able to get my smallest feeler gauge under the cam lobe to check it. I think I am going to bring it in to get the valves adjusted. I thought about doing it myself, but do not even know how to begin since I am not even able to get a measurement on that one intake valve. Have any of you guys done this? If so, what did you use to measure the valve clearance? My feeler gauge does not seem to come close the accuracy they want for the valves. The intake is supposed to be .12mm +/- .03mm. I have a gauge at .1, .15, and .2. But how can you get it within .03? Any help would be great.

Thanks,
Chad

[chondamx]

Where did you get .12? The spec for intake is .005 +/-.001. Hmm it dosen't make since that it's easier to start when it's warm if it's the valves. Both of my intakes went to zero and before that i couldn't get it started whether it was hot or cold and it wouldn't even idle when i did get it running. Check your clearences again, and if they need to be ajusted there is a good write up on TT on how to do it, it's really easy just take you time and dont drop anything into the cases (i made the mistake of pulling out a shim bucket to fast and the shim fell into the case, so i get to fish it out). Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.

Chris

[ev]

Where did you get .12? The spec for intake is .005 +/-.001.

.005 of your inches = 0,12 of our millimeters

Chad, might your set of gauges be a little incomplete?
look at a specialized toolstore, not Pep Boys or the like

[Jason]

I use the English (American) measuring system .005 +/- .001 for intake and .011 +/- .001 for exhaust. For every .001 inches your off it is .0254 mm. I have seen the formula for selecting the right shim on this forum, I can't remember it off the top of my head and don't have the book with me. It is in the service and owner's manual. The sizes of the shims are stamped on them. Both manuals illustrate how to change them and are easy to follow. If you have the cover off you can change the shims. Just take your time and like Chris said make sure a shim doesn't fall down in the case.

[chadman]

Well the metric set of gauges I have is from Mac, and the English set is from Snap-On. The English set has the metric conversions on it, but it is still not as close as the manual is looking for. The shop manual tells me what to do if I can measure the gap, but not what to do if the gap is closed. I guess I could assume the gap is 0, but I am not sure this would really be correct. The other problem was taking the cam out to adjust the shims. It did not look too hard, but I did not have the special tool to remove the cam tension screw. It looks like I can probably make a tool to do this, but sheesh. I do not think Honda could have made this any harder if they tried.

Once my bike is warmed up it seems to run “okâ€￾ and start “ok. But it is not running good. The idle is really bad and I am losing some power. I am hopping this intake valve is the cause of the problem.

Thanks,
Chad

[Jason]

I tried making the tension tool but used too thin of metal and bent it. I used a small screw driver and once it locked I carefully pulled the screwdriver out and it stayed that way until I released it after reinstalling everything. Maybe I got lucky or maybe it works, I'll find out when I have to do this again. Checked the valves and after 15 hours they did not move from after I broke it in. Another trick is to zip tie or wire the timing chain to the cam gear so you don't have to try and line it up after you put it back together. If you have a shim kit like the one off this site then it's easy to put one in and get a starting point. Because you have no clearance I would drop in one 3 or 4 sizes thinner and see where you're at. If you're dealer is like mine and doesn't carry exhaust shims or seems to be out of the size you need then you're up a creek.

Good luck.

[chadman]

Well I have some bad news! The shop just called and told me the problem with my bike. They said since I have no clearance at all on one intake valve, there was probably another problem causing it. They removed the head and said I need a new piston, rings, cam, one intake valve, and some other valve parts I do not remember. They said the problem was caused by the messed up intake valve and that the bike has over heated. They said the cam should be replaced because it has blue stress marks on it from the engine over heating. They are asking 525 in parts, and about another 400 in labor to fix it. I am not sure what to do at this point. The bike has just under 1000 miles on it. The shop changed the cam for me the first time and adjusted the valves, but that was a few hundred miles ago. I am just a little disappointed in this bike requiring so much maintence. The last bike I owned was a 78 Husky. I just got rid of it and my buddy still uses it. The only thing I ever did for it was change the oil, and put gas in it. I never looked at the valves on it. Anyway just a heads up for you guys that have not looked at your valves recently. Do not wait like I did and find out the hard way that you are screwed!

Thanks,
Chad

[crfsonly]

chad...sorry to hear the news. first, don't put the stock valves back in this time. go with the kibblewhite stainless valves and use their valve springs as well. this will significantly add durability to your valve train. second, if you have to put in a new cam put in a hot cams stage 1 cam. i believe it's cheaper than the stock cam and will give you more performance and equal durability.

during the last 200 hundred miles did you check and adjust the valves? anytime you put in new cam/valves you need to treat it like a new motor and check clearance shortly there after as the valves will seat. if you didn't do this early and at least often enough for the valves to settle in.

good luck and let us know what you end up doing and how it turns out.

ken

[chadman]

Do you have a price for these Ken? I am not sure what to do about the cam. I could put my old one back in, but I like the performace from the Rcam.

Thanks,
Chad

[crfsonly]

chad...i just spoke with kibblewhite and unfortunately they are delay AGAIN on the manufacturing of their 250 valves. they are looking at two more weeks. not sure if you can wait until then or not. let me know.

ken

[chadman]

The shop called Honda and Honda asked for a list of parts needed to fix my bike. I thought at this sounded like good news. Well today the shop called and Honda is not going to help with parts or labor to fix my bike. They told the shop that this is normal wear and that the piston should be replaced after every 17 hours of use. I do not think I ever would have purchased this bike if I knew that. I am going to put my old cam back in, put my old header pipe on, put the pink wire back, and probably have to change the jetting. The list of parts I need is a new piston, 2 new intake valves, 4 valve seats, 2 valve guides, piston, rings, gaskets, and a new camshaft. This is the first bike I have gotten in a long time and just assumed it would last as long as my old bikes. I love the bike, but this much maintenance is kind of a bummer!

Thanks,
Chad

[crfsonly]

chad...again, sorry to hear of your situation. i don't think this is normal wear unless you are running it pinned. top level racers might have to perform top end rebuilds on that schedule but no one i know that is the average weekend warrior rider is doing that.

you might want to consider sending the motor to someone that specializes in these type of rebuilds. dan crower is one that comes to mind.

good luck and let us know how it goes.

ken

[r_seith]

Your shop changed your cam and adjusted your valves a few hundred miles ago (they serviced your bike) and now your having this problem? I think I would take the bike elsewhere. I question if they know what they're doing. I don't buy that you did that much damage to the engine by "overheating" it. Sounds fishy to me.

Just a suggestion.

[redrider911]

I would def. question them! That is insane!! Go get a second opinion

[chadman]

Well I just got the bill for my bike. Since I am putting my old cam back in it is going to cost 617.76. This is after they dropped the price 20% for the parts. I spoke again with the mechanic about this and he told me he would see me back in another 700-1k miles with the same problem. He told me these bikes are high maintenance and he sees this all of the time on the 250x/250r. I am sorry, but there is no excuse for this type of maintenance on a trail bike. If I had know this I never would have gotten this bike. I know lots of people have not had any valve problems, but at the same time I have read a lot of post with people having the same problem as myself. I am going to cut my losses and sell the bike. I know I will lose a lot since it is a 2005, but I do not have time to deal with maintenance problems. Today I purchased a 2005 525 EXC KTM. I know it is a lot bigger bike, but it looks like it is going to be a blast to ride. After a lot of reading the KTM’s seem to have the best reliability. I know every bike has its problems, but after this problem with my bike, plus reading many other post on other forums with similar experiences, I decided to move on. Keep you eye out on ebay for a lot of my after market parts!

Thanks,
Chad