[ThumperX]

So 8 days ago I got my bike back from having my valves checked, intake was right on, but my exhaust were closed. Closed you say? Just about, sense they were below the smallest feeler we had. Got it all shimmed back up close to spec with the honda owners manual and went for a ride 2 days later at Jawbone. Bike ran flawless for 55 miles and seemed to have some extra grunt. The following day I go to start the bike and nada, nothing, zilch! It bump started and seemed to run ok but still didn't seem right. Went back to check the valves and my left side was at about half way closed and my right side was basically shut AGAIN. I'm guessing its time? Complete valve, piston, cam, and some extra spunk or just go with a big bore? I was expecting my bike to last longer than what it did. Not sure where my bike stands hour wise but i'm sure to be near 2000ish miles. Let me here your ideas on what I should do with this piece.

[124]

So 8 days ago I got my bike back from having my valves checked, intake was right on, but my exhaust were closed.

I'm sure you meant the intakes were closed and the exhausts were ok. Right?

Let me here your ideas on what I should do with this piece.

Fix it with stainless. What do you want to do with it?

[ThumperX]

Yep, your right it was the intakes that were closing or closed. I remember the right side being below .001 basically shut and the left side at .002. Exhaust was still within spec.

Only reason I ask on what I should do next is that I still owe close to $3800 or so on a bike thats a year an a half old.

[124]

Only reason I ask on what I should do next is that I still owe close to $3800 or so on a bike thats a year an a half old.

That's ok, this is a maintenance item that can be prolonged next time if done correctly. First thing is to order the stainless valves and spring kit right now.

You can shim the valves until you get to about the 130-135 shim sizes. 120 is the smallest shim available, then you are out of room. I don't recommend even running the 120 shim. It just means that the valve angle has depleted enough that catostrophic damage is more likely to occur. All the damaged valves I've seen after the 120 shim has been used up, is dangerously close to complete failure...

Order the stainless valves and spring kit. Also, get the valve stem seals, they're cheap insurance. Your guides are likely still OK. You'll need a top-end gasket kit too. I'd also recommend changing the piston rings at this point. You'll be about $400 in parts.

Assuming you can R&R the head, cylinder, and piston rings yourself, labor is about $150. For $150, a reputable shop should remove all the old stuff, repair the valve seats, and install the stainless equipment/new seals. Turn-around time should be one day or quicker.

You'll be back in action before you know it. The stainless valvetrain components will last MUCH longer than the OEM stuff. It is not noticeable power-wise and is ten times more durable. Feel free to ask questions...

Sam

[ThumperX]

I know we put 125 shim on the left side and a 132 I believe on the right. It fires right up again but i'm thinking after my next ride its going to either suck the valves into the head or just close again.

When replacing my valves and all I want to bring some power out of the deal too, without having to drop a grand for the big bore. Piston, cam, port job?

[paul turner]

Thump Dude

Stock intakes, {A} piston kit. Should you go with a Stage 1 Hot Cam, PeteK will have the jetting set-up for you.


paul

[ThumperX]

Paul, a couple questions... Should I just replace my intakes or should I do my exhaust valves also at the same time? I'm having a tough time deciding on a piston setup because of the whole compression ratio, can someone explain the more compression equals what or less compression will do that? Besides that i'm leaning towards a Wiseco setup with kibblewhite valves and maybe titaniums if funds permit at the time. I've been wanting to do the hot cams s1 for awhile so i'm sure it'll slide in there somewhere. I just hope the price tags satisfy me with some power atleast.

[124]

Should I just replace my intakes or should I do my exhaust valves also at the same time?

Do everything at once. Intakes and exhausts.

I'm having a tough time deciding on a piston setup because of the whole compression ratio, can someone explain the more compression equals what or less compression will do that?

More compression = more power (to a certain extent). When efficiency is optimized ofcourse. With the type of riding that most amateurs do, a high compression setup will only cost money. Race gas and possible reliability issues start to = $$. IMO, the benefits do not out-weigh the means.

Besides that i'm leaning towards a Wiseco setup with kibblewhite valves and maybe titaniums if funds permit at the time.

I use Wiseco pistons and have not had a problem (knocking on wood). Stock sizing and compression ratio. Titanium is the reason your in the mess in the first place. Your stock intake valves are titanium. I recommended you switch to stainless as many others have and enjoy the improved durability.

I've been wanting to do the hot cams s1 for awhile so i'm sure it'll slide in there somewhere. I just hope the price tags satisfy me with some power atleast.

From what I hear the Hotcams S1 or S2 is the way to go for the 250's. It's $180 extra, no extra work necessary if you do it during the valve job....

[ThumperX]

Thanks guys for your help.. If titanium is what I have now then theres no chance I will get them. I'm going for a ride tomorrow and see how she acts.

[Monkeywrench]

I echo 124 on not using the 120 shim. I did this, to squeeze one last ride out of the stock valves. There was no damage (luckily) but it was clear when I pulled the stock valves there was just about nothing left of the edges. Would have been very easy to cut at least packing tape with the intake valves, which is real close to them chipping away possibly causing cylinder scoring.

Try to get out of the shimming rat race early if at all possible.

Also it would be the perfect time to switch to Hotcam. You'll not be disappointed, and may find yourself grabbing too much throttle at first. Adds a real nice boost to the low and mid end of the curve.

[ThumperX]

Well this is the third time i've shimmed my valves and my last time too. I'm going to order some stuff this weekend and prolly some stuff I won't even need so i'll let you guys now how it goes. I'm also going for a ride in the soak desert tomorrow if I break down i'll leave it for a honda memorial

[ThumperX]

So as I said i'd be back with a list of what I believe it will take or so been told.

*WHAT I NEED*
-Wiseco Piston $117.99
-(2) Kibblewhite intake valves $38.99 each
-(2) Kibblewhite exhaust valves $38.99 each
-Kibblewhite valve spring kit $208.99
-Cometic top end gasket kit $32.99

*What I'd LIKE TO ADD WHILE TORN DOWN*
-Hotcam S1 $180
-Renthal 51t rear sprocket $61.70
-Tusk fork bleeder valves $12.99
-Trailtech endurance computer $74.99

So thats about $500 just to rebuild the top end and close to $800 with the extras i've been wanting to add for some time now. Does my list look ok or am I missing something? (I hope not)

[ThumperX]

*Note that these prices were taken from Rocky Mountain's catalog as that was all I had to look at while working.

[124]

Valve seals.
They're cheap insurance...~$6/ea

[Monkeywrench]

Thumper,
I might hold off on the 51-tooth rear until you have had a chance to experience the hotcam. Just a suggestion, that maybe could save you some time and $, unless you have ridden that setup somewhere else before and are certain that will suit your style. The Hotcam with an even larger rear sprocket may turn your front end into a basketball unless also, of course, that's what you're after.

If you plan on grabbing the rear sprkt. maybe give your new changes a spin first, then add it on?? If for nothing other than to see exactly how the bike runs differently from the hotcam alone, so you have a comparasin base.

Remember also that adding size on the rear sprocket will take slack out of your chain and put the wheelbase closer together (just a side effect). That may change the handling, unless you add links back to compensate, to keep the rear tire right where it's at. If that's not a biggie, I'm still not sure if you'd need to add any chain links to accomodate the larger rear, or if there's enough slack already, but I'd tend to guess you'd be ok with the # of stock chain links, though.

So good luck to you, and definately let us know how you make out. Taking the head out is a little easier than putting it back in. Just pay close attention to how you got it out, and reverse it to get it back in. (I say this because the machine shop had my head for almost 2 weeks, and I couldn't remember if I came thru the side, or went straight thru the gas tank area).
Some mechanic I'd make.
(wait, I AM a mechanic).