* Use white-out and mark 2 links of the cam-chain, and the tooth of the cam sprocket that rests between them. This way makes re-assembly and getting the cam installed 'in time' easier on your 1st try.
* Do this to the stock cam during removal, and use the scribe line on the stock cam as a starting point to count the number of teeth towards your white-out tooth. Then white-out the same # tooth on the Hotcam, and that's the tooth that will go between your 2 white-out cam chain links.
* Before pulling the stock cam, or even disconnecting it from the cam chain, break the bolt free that holds the decompressor onto the cam. This way you're using the engine/cam chain to hold the cam in place while you loosen the bolt, rather then a vice(!) Then re-position the engine crank if by chance you have moved it during breaking the decompressor bolt free.
* Suspend the cam-chain from the frame using a wire-tie after you've removed the stock cam. It's reliable and strong (don't tape it up there!) and it'll stay there nicely during your bench work. Then just snip the tie-wrap when it's time to re-install.
* Place shop rags over engine-case access "pits", so as to block any valve shims or small hardware from dropping where you ain't gonna get it back.
* I like using a pocket magnet to pull the lifter buckets off the tops of the intake valves. This way, as soon as you are able, you can put a finger under them to hold the shim inside until you get to the bench. But the magnet won't marr the lifter bucket (pliers aren't really a good idea) and it helps hold the shim in place while moving it away from the engine.
* When lining up the timing marks in preparation to pull the cam, I like to have the scribe lines on the cam sprocket "level" with the side of the head. The book tells you to line up the arrow on the side of the engine casing with the timing mark on the crank. This way places the scribe line on the cam sprocket slightly off-level... which can make it harder to "see" if you're off-a-tooth during reassembly. If you instead rotate the engine a little more (or less, I forget which one it is), you end up having the scribe linees level with the edge of the engine head. This way, as long as you do not rotate the engine in any way during your work, it will be easy to see if you are 1-tooth off during re-install, since the scribe lines would then be noticably "off level". Plus if you use the white-out method, that's a 2nd visual aid to help you. (As long as the cam chain is not allowed to slip a tooth on the lower sprocket during your work... which it shouldn't if you keep tension on it after the cam comes out, and the wire tie helps do this well).
* use assembly lube on the cam lobes, lifters, and other spots which won't get lubrication on start-up.
* (added thought): lube that decompressor arm well. Some guys have run into situations where it binds and won't swing properly, resultuing in that clack sound you hear at low rpm's to happen at all rpm's.
* Torque the decompressor bolt down to proper spec after your cam chain is installed and you're sure the cam is "in time". Again this way you're using the engine to hold and lock the cam, and not the bench vice.
Guys feel free to add -- with the amount of knowledge and DYI talent here, I'm thinking most anybody could do the cam swap on their own.
