[Halen]

When doing the pink wire mod is changing the cam a necessary mod as well? If so, would going to the R cam a good idea or something like the Hotcam stage 1?
thanks
Van

[Asmith]

The ignition curve of the R is matched to the cam in the R. Changing the X curve to match that of the R isn't going to realize the power gains because the cam won't match it.

All you will really get is a 500 rpm increase in the limiter.

[Halen]

Will the 'R' cam fit? or should I just leave the pink wire mod the way it is?

[Asmith]

Will the 'R' cam fit? or should I just leave the pink wire mod the way it is?

R cam will fit just fine. It's one of the original CCC mods.

I would probably go with a HotCams stage 1 or 2 if I were changing cams. Guys that have 'em, rave about them...

[Halen]

Does installing the Hotcam 'tax' the other engine parts at all. I am wondering if I will be adding extra maintenace to the valves etc. if I goes this route.
later... Van

[Asmith]

Does installing the Hotcam 'tax' the other engine parts at all. I am wondering if I will be adding extra maintenace to the valves etc. if I goes this route.
later... Van

I wouldn't think they would. They don't add any lift, just timing and duration. I would think the springs and valves wouldn't be taxed any more than normal.

That being said, I don't think I'll go this route until it's time for valves. Then I'll go with the RHC Ferrea valves and his HD springs.

[Monkeywrench]

Halen:
~ is correct and then some - I really enjoyed the switch to the Hot Cam. I had already switched to the WhiteBros exhaust, though - so I'm not certain how it would feel on a stock exhaust (my bad here, I can't remember if you have the original pipe or if you had switched already). Unfortunately I was one of those who experienced the dreaded 2004 valve failure, in spite of near anal maintenance and valve gap checks. Plus there are those whose valves failed even with the stock cam in place, so I wouldn't feel confident thinking the new cam had something to do with it. Now that the Kibble valves and springs are installed, time will tell if there is going to be similar movement (don't think there will be).

In case you hadn't visited the site yet, here's the direct link to the page on their site which tells you more about the 2 choices you have:
http://www.hotcamsinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=cProducts.view&productid=476
(On this page there are also 2 video links which take you thru the install).

Comparing the specs on stage 1 and stage 2, I see that stage 2's cam has both more lift and duration than stage 1. Although they don't have their own performance comment on the stage 2 cam like they do about the stage 1 cam, I have read about the stage 2's for the 450's delivering 'more' up at the top end of the RPM's... so it's probably safe to think it's similar for the 250X.

If you do switch to the Hotcam (either stage) I recommend riding it without the Pink Wire mod for a bit. I think you'll enjoy and notice a difference in the cams. Then after you're used to the added 'snap' (I was impressed how much 2nd gear improved) try the pink wire mod, and feel yet another change. That one won't be as great a change as going to the new cam itself, but you will notice a change as Agent pointed out. It does seem to somehow feel more of an agressive timing curve after the P/W mod.

Let us know when/which/if you decide on one.
It's not going to turn your X into the 450, but boy does it make 2nd gear snappy, and 3rd gear much less 'luggy'.
-matt

[Halen]

Hey... thanks Matt
I am running the FMF powercore Ti slip on for a pipe.
Was the valve problem fix in the 05's?or is that something I should be thinking of as a winter project?
thanks for your help guys.
later... Van

[JimmyPwadd]

Matt,
Did you go with the Stage 1 or Stage 2.
I read some chit-chat that the stage 1 is a little better at the bottom end/ lower rpms and the stage 2 is for more top end/ high rpm improvement.
Either way, 3rd gear even after jetting, AP mods, etc. needs a wake up call!

[Old Dude]

Stage 1 low to mid range (where most of us ride anyway) improvement. Excellent for woods and old guys on MX tracks. I had mine installed no valve adjustment required no rejetting changes. Follow the break in directions.
Big improvement. Did I say Big? I mean HUGE smile til it hurts improvement! Do the pink wire too. It feels like it revs to the moon. I have never bounced it off the rev limiter even when I'm doing bonzai runs up and down the street. in front of Instigators house.
O.D.

[Monkeywrench]

Halen: this is a good question --
I'm not 100% sure what year the change was made, but since I've been on the forums here (I guess a couple years now) I remember seeing more pout faces ( ) from guys like me with the '04 valves. I think Honda addressed the valve coating process... something about making whatever hardening the valves go thru 'thicker' or somehow more durable.
The actual seat material in the head was also brought up for discussion a few times, and I think Honda may have even advertised a 'harder' or 'improved' valve seat material in '06 (don't quote me on that). So I'm pretty sure there have been changes along the way.

On whether or not to do a valve rebuild this winter: the best advice I can think of would be to just keep up with checking your valve clearances, and make sure to keep your air filter clean. Other than that, you're not really doing yourself any other favors by rebuilding the head before it's needed -- BUT (and a big but here), I wouldn't run the stock valves any longer than the 2nd or 3rd smallest shim in your kit (I think a 1.35mm). The edges just get too thin and may snap off causing more costly damage.

Really I'd just keep checking the clearances. When the valves start to move, reshim, and record the date. The next time they need shimming, so it again and record the date. When you start getting less and less ride time between shimmings, start hunting for a good machine shop that can recut the valve seats in the head, and get your parts ordered. It won't be long until you'll need the rebuild.

Jimmy: they only offered a Stage 1 when I ordered my Hotcam. But 3rd gear got its wakeup call. I couldn't get over how much more fun 2nd gear was though. I'll never forget grabbing too much throttle around my first turn in 2nd with the Hotcam. Front wheel came up like it didn't belong on the ground anymore. It's a great hop-up. 2-thumbs on the Stage 1 in my book.

[JimmyPwadd]

How long did it take to install the HotCam and was it difficult?
That will probably be my next mod to my bike.

Thanks for the info Monkey,
James

[Monkeywrench]

Jim,
the install itself is not really a biggie... pretty much the same proceedure as when you remove the stock cam to readjust/reshim your valve clearances. Only you're putting the Hotcam in, instead of the stock cam.

There's a break-in period (change oil after 1st "gentle-ish" ride and reinspect the valve clearances). After that you should be good to roost away.

Hope you give one a try -- just about everything people post about them is positive. It won't make your bike a 450, but if you're ready for the next step, without spending all kinds of money on a big-bore kit, I'd risk saying it's probably the most noticible change you can make to your bike even within that price range.
good luck.
-matt

[JimmyPwadd]

I have watched the video on the site like 5 times.
I should be able to do it with my eyes closed. Doesn't look too bad.
Ya' know what they say....monkey see monkey doo!