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Pro Moto Endo’s Spark Arrestor End Caps
Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 6:14 pm
by The Hobbit
anyone know about Pro Moto Endo’s Spark Arrestor End Caps?? I thought the extra silencer that came with my 250X was stock.. Apparently I was wrong. It has a Pro Moto Endo’s Spark Arrestor End Cap mounted already. 5'm not sure if the extra 5db spark arrestor/silencer is in it yet because I just googled it. So... any info would be cool!!
Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:27 pm
by mariom676
If your end cap is red (new style) the silencer will look like this on the end of it.
But if the end cap is silver (old style) the silencer will look like this.
Here's their website.
http://www.promotobillet.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=46_48_36
Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 2:18 pm
by The Hobbit
Thanks, I was wondering if it will be CA. legal and if the performance gains warrant buying the silencer, and rejetting to it???
Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:42 pm
by mariom676
The Hobbit wrote:Thanks, I was wondering if it will be CA. legal and if the performance gains warrant buying the silencer, and rejetting to it???
It will be CA legal with the endo on no matter what (sparky).
But the optional silencer piece will make it below 96db (sound legal).
With the different muffler you should jet it, but whether the silencer piece is in or not will probably
not affect the bike enough to rejet,
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 7:25 am
by The Hobbit
Thanks for the info. I was looking at your set up and was wondering what the NCYU stands for??
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 7:27 am
by Asmith
The Hobbit wrote:Thanks for the info. I was looking at your set up and was wondering what the NCYU stands for??
It's the stock needle on the 04-06 California model 250x.
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 7:38 pm
by The Hobbit
Oh! O.K. thanks. I got my JD jetting kit today, any easy way to get to the carb without flipping the rear frame??
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 7:53 pm
by Asmith
The Hobbit wrote:Oh! O.K. thanks. I got my JD jetting kit today, any easy way to get to the carb without flipping the rear frame??
Do you plan on doing the AP Mod too? if so, flipping the subframe will make things easier.
If you are just doing jets and needle, the carb can be rotated enough to do the job.
Loosen the rubber boots fore and aft of the carb and rotate towards the left side of bike after changing the needle. Pull tank and seat to change needle.
The jets can be accessed from the 17mm plug on the bottom of carb. It's tight, but can be done.
I have found a tool that makes things easier...
http://www.crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic ... ight=depot
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 8:04 pm
by The Hobbit
If by AP mod yoy mean air box cut open, It was done before I got the bike. So I can twist the carb bottom to the left side to access the drain and change the main,but I don't quite understand...you said "to change the needle,then remove seat and tank to...change the needle???
Also do I need to change the leak jet or anythingelse??
Sorry, I'm just learning all this stuff and you guy's are great at being patient with me!!
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 8:37 pm
by Asmith
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:08 pm
by The Hobbit
Cool! Thanks again for all the help. I'll try to get to it on sunday and then go out and warm it up!!
One quick ??? Is the slow jet the same as the leak jet?? just a different term?[/i]
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:21 pm
by Asmith
The Hobbit wrote:Cool! Thanks again for all the help. I'll try to get to it on sunday and then go out and warm it up!!
One quick ??? Is the slow jet the same as the leak jet?? just a different term?[/i]
No the slow jet is also referred to as the Pilot jet. It is just forward of the main jet. It should be changed out as well to a 42 (stock 40). It is not included in the JD Kit, you will need to get from dealer.
The leak jet is in the bottom of the float bowl and works with the AP. Most likely won't need to be changed.
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:57 pm
by The Hobbit
Bitchin!! you Rock! I'll let you know how it goes.[/i]