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For anyone who's re-jetted their 250X, I'm wondering if you had the same difficulties I'm having. I'm talking about the difficulty I'm having just getting to areas of the carb I need to get to.

I should be able to get to the needle. But the main and pilot look like they are going to be tough. After I rotate the carb.. aka.. pull the bottom of the carb out towards the left side of the bike.. I might be able to get a socket in there to do the main. But the pilot looks doubtful.

I can only rotate carb about 10 or 15 degrees. There's no way in hell to get any sort of screw driver up there to get to the pilot jet. The clutch actuator (and the trans) are firmly in the way. I can't rotate the carb out any more than it is. It feels and looks like the top of the carb is hitting the frame on the other side of the bike.

Before I break something... has anyone else been through this and had simialr difficulty starting out? Or did Honda make this configuration just to entertain me?

I've never worked on this or any other carb on a bike this size. So this is all new ground for me. It sure as hell appears to be much much more difficult that any how-to or instructions make it out to be.

any insight would be appreciated.

Frustration level increasing.... wife hiding breakables.

Kevin,

I use a tool that is the most awesome tool for doing work on these bikes.

Husky Pro #66604 Available in a set from Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN ... 76&pos=n01

It's a racheting double box end wrench. 1/4 on one end, 5/16 on the other. In the 1/4 end I use a flat screwdriver bit about 1 1/2" long for pilots and leak jets.

On the 5/16" end, I use a 1/4" socket drive with a 6 mm six point socket for mains. The wrench is so flat with just the perfect angles for doing carb work.

Get one, you'll thank me.

That looks like it will do the trick. I shouldn't start this sort of work so late when I'm already toast to begin with.

Home Depot it is.

Thanks in advance.

Kevin,

I did my 250X needle, main and pilot jetting by only rotating the carb. The access was not too difficult. I may have used a right angle screw driver for the pilot since i do have one ... can't remember.

Also change out all of the bottom Phillips head screws with SS hex head screws ... you will thank yourself later when you need to get into the carb.

Kevin,

I think what stops the carb from being turned any more is the hot-start valve's connection point into the carb... but you don't really wanna undo that unless you have to. Plus you should be able to get at the pilot with a long-reach flat blade screw driver once you have the carb rotated all the way. You'll do better using one with a round shaft rather than square.
If you disengage the clutch cable from the clutch fork, and take off the front sprocket's guard, you'll be able to lay on your side and see straight up into the float bowl, thru the drain plug hole. This is where the long-reach screw driver comes in.

A worthy note of caution :idea: (with any tool you choose to remove the pilot with) -- the pilot jet is nestled inside a cone-shaped housing which is open on one side (it's a casted part of the carb)You wanna make sure the width of the blade of your screwdriver (or whatever tool you make up) isn't wider than this housing. I read a while back on CRF's Only that some poor fella accidentally snapped this whole housing right off... something like the screwdriver blade got caught on the "open" side of the pilot housing. He thought he was loosening the pilot jet when actually the screw driver was wedged on one of the edges of the open side of the pilot housing, and it broke off. I think the only way to fix that is with a new carb.

To get the pilot back installed, I like a long-reach screw starter. It does a great job of holding the pilot jet while you fuss it into place.

Good luck!
-matt

Thanks fellas.

I finally got it done. Picked up that kit AS. HUGELY helpful. Thanks.

The main was easy with that small closed-end ratchet. But it extracted the component that holds the main jet. The needle jet holder accord to the diagrams. After changing to the 162 main, I opened the throttle and slid it all back in and carefully started and snugged it up.

MW, yes.. having done it the hard way.... undoing the clutch and the sprocket cover probaly would have let me use a long screw driver. Waht i did though was use a 1-1/4" flat blade screw driver bit with the small ratchet. It was a little tedious but I saw the orientation of the slot in the pilot so it wasn't too bad getting started. I did read that post about the poor guy who cracked that shroud. Looks like I avoided it though. Thankfully.

Like the old saying goes.. if it seems too har d to do, you're probably doing it wrong. or need more appropriate tools.

I got the TwinAir cage and filter in and I removed the rubber snorkle but haven't opened up the top of the airbox yet. I think I want to see a photo of an opened 250X before I go cutting. I'm sure I'll find apicture here somewhere.

I also took a look at the throttle assembly cover. That sure looks like it's tucked well behind the righthand main spar. I may do that another day but for tonight, I won't press my luck.

Now.. onto the Fuel Screw and the Applied vent Kit. Pics don't look like my 250X but I'll figure it out.

edit: got the vent kit and fuel screw done. The Tee connector changed a bit as did the airbox since Applied created the instructions.

AS.. that small ratchet came in handy yet again while removing the fuel screw. I used the small flat head bit from the kit to loosen the fuel screw. Did the rest by hand and was careful not to drop the o-ring, washer and spring. Got it 1-1/4 turns out. Will adjust when I'm done with airbox mod and have a chance to fire it up.

Thanks again fellas. Can't wait to ride it.

edit: I wanted to mention one more thing. I picked up a pair safety glasses as Sears. These have 4 bright-white LEDs (2 per side) and beat the b-jeezus out of holding a flashlight. They were $15, the lights can be directed if needed and I highly recommend getting a pair if you don't have a pair already. Something tells me some of have had them for years.

Man O, Man, what a chore, and I'm not do yet either. I only drank one beer, and I recall it was warm by the time I finished for the night. I had very little luck getting to the front right side bowl screw. I think I saw a reply from Agent that said you can access the main from the drain plug. Do i need to remove the bowl still? I'm trying to change the main, and the slow jet. The needle is a bugger too! I removed the very top plate on the carb, and saw the needle way, way, way down there. I rotated the carb as much as possible, but it seems that even a ball type allen will be very difficult to reach the back allen, so I can remove the carb cover. Any help?

So, here's where I am at this point. The Top cover is loose on one side. Three of the five screws on the bowl are removed.

JJ,

If you are doing the main jet, the pilot (slow) jet, and the needle... you don't need to drop the bowl on the carb!

You only need to drop the bowl if you plan to change the leak jet.

And if you are pulling your carb all apart you should think about adding an easy adjust fuel screw and replacing the crappy stock bowl screws with stainless steel allen head cap screws to make dropping the bowl 1000% easier in the future.

For the main jet, unscrew the drain plug on the bottom of the bowl. Use a 1/4 drive ratchet with 6mm socket (I think it's 6mm) to unscrew the main.

With the main out of the way, you can get to the pilot jet which is a little north of where the main was. It's in a plastic tube, which you should be careful not to damage. You'll need an extremely short and narrow straight slot to get to it. If you don't happen to have a tiny and short screwdriver - you'll need a right angle drive like ~ posted above. I've also had good luck with a "finger drive" with a straight slot bit ground down to be a little narrower. It's a little hard to describe, if I can find a picture I'll post it.

Don't know why you'd be having a hard time getting to the needle. However, I can say that long blade "T" handle hex (allen) keys makes the job a lot easier. With the seat and the tank removed, you should be able to get to both cover bolts fairly easily - although you may need to loosen one side first and then rotate the carb a little to get to the other side. After the cover is off, use the appropriate size hex wrench to remove the needle bolt thingy (well, actually "screw set, jet needle"), watch out for the little spring. Then use the Honda jet removal tool to take out the jet and replace the jet or move the clip - whichever you're trying to do. You can use extra long nose needle tip pliers to remove the carb needle in a pinch, but the Honda tool is tons easier (and only costs a few bucks if you need to go out and buy one).

Long screwdriver to easily loosen the boot clamps, to rotate the carb for access.


Needle Cover on the top of the carb (pic courtesy of JD).


Remove cover (3mm allen head screw) with long T handled ball tip hex key...


Remove the "Needle Cap" (4mm allen head screw) with hex key (pic = JD)...


Remove needle with HONDA needle tool (pic = JD)...


Replace Needle and/or adjust clip position. Reverse process to button everything up.

P.S. For changing the pilot (slow) jet, I use a "finger drive" with a straight slot bit ground down a little to make it a little narrower (the drives are from Sears, $6.99 for a set of 3 -- you can also find them other places).


Good Luck!

When you are removing a needle jet, with the top of the carb off, twist the throttle and the jet moves to the top of the carb... you can ALMOST pull it out with your fingers.
later... Van

Well I didn't look in my goodie bag I receievd from the dealer, until I went to a freinds house last night and he showed me the great needle tool. It took all of about 3 seconds to remove the needle. Thanks for the info on the main, and slow jet. I'm going to go get some screws since I have all but 2 off already. I'll let you know how it goes

JJ

I'm glad that's done. I tried everything that everyone recommended, and found out that there is no easy way to do some of the task needed. It's all back together!

I could not find SS screws, so I opted for the black steel just like the ones in the top of the carb for now. Is it important to use SS, or will the steel work. I can image that if they rust it could be a real

Halen, if your listening I would like to take you up on your offer for the screws, that is if, your still offering!

Just an update: I ran the setup I asked about a week ago against "AS" advise, so I will let everyone know how it went.

Stock 2006 250X.

Main 132
Slow 45
Needle changed out for a (NCVQ) Honda OEM
Clip third slot from the top

JJ

JJ wrote:I'm glad that's done. I tried everything that everyone recommended, and found out that there is no easy way to do some of the task needed. It's all back together!

I could not find SS screws, so I opted for the black steel just like the ones in the top of the carb for now. Is it important to use SS, or will the steel work. I can image that if they rust it could be a real

Halen, if your listening I would like to take you up on your offer for the screws, that is if, your still offering!

Just an update: I ran the setup I asked about a week ago against "AS" advise, so I will let everyone know how it went.

Stock 2006 250X.

Main 132
Slow 45
Needle changed out for a (NCVQ) Honda OEM
Clip third slot from the top

JJ

The Black Oxide Allen heads are better than the stock Phillips heads but they will rust. Get the stainless if you can.

Good luck with the set up.

JJ
I am listening but still don't know where to send the screws
kidding of course... PM me and I'll send you off a set!
I just sent a set off to Ireland and one down to my southern Brother NCLR1
later... Van

I ran the setup I asked about a week ago against "AS" advise, so I will let everyone know how it went

.
I can tell you.
We did the JD kit,airbox mod per the Honda Bulletin, and drilled the diffuser on my buddies 06, and another guy who rides at our track with an 05 250X was there with his bike, and he'd done exactly that-132/45/NCVQ in the 3rd slot.
This guy is a trip, a pain in the butt really. Once he found out we were modding a 250X he was even calling me to tell me that his bike ran so great with this set-up, there's no way the bike won't be way too rich, all this faulty intellectualizing to the point it was getting annoying.
Well it was no contest whatsoever, his 250X feels like riding a WR with the throttle stop installed in comparison. Doug

~ wrote:
Get one, you'll thank me.

Got One! Thank you!