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I have searched all over. 2019 CRF150R. Its jetted.(JD kit), G2 throttle tamer. No bog. Runs great. I have been wrenching are cars and bikes for 40 years.

Yes, girl friends bike. She came off a TTR125 and also has a CRF250L. (to heavy for her to pu all day).

It still has a very minor light switch effect when you roll on from idle to just off idle. She doesn't feel comfortable standing and is always in that range. Probably afraid of more throttle.

I've completely pull off the TPS and the light switch effect is gone. Timing advance is also gone, which isnt a huge deal. I've adjusted as far as I can so it doesn't send the signal to soon. I don't know Honda programming. Its probably a progressive advance. Yes the bike rips. If it was a bigger frame. I'd buy one for my self.

Any ideas?? On off switch for the TPS?? Like a MAP switch?? Can the jetting still be off? It really runs good. No bog. I'm 200 pounds and it will haul me around no problem.

Thanks Jon

Welcome to the site !!

So what is it you are trying to achieve ?? , the ability to have her ride it mellow , and for you to jump on it and haul ???

If so , then I guess you would wire up a switch to bypass the TPS , kind of like what people (like me) do with the 450X with the Pink Wire Mod ........ That said , if she is still struggling with it , then what I would suggest is to go down 1 tooth on the rear , this will make it a little less sensitive on the bottom end , it will increase the top speed , but I don't think she needs to worry about that ......

You could actually go UP on the front sprocket 1 tooth , but that might be too drastic a difference , as 1 on the front is about equal to 3 on the rear , or you could combo and go up on the front and up on the rear to be in between .......

Look at this gearing chart , it might help you figure out a combo that would work for her , then as she gains experience or confidence you can revert back step by step

I may try a gear change. I have to say its a little annoying. It would be nice to fix the problem. Its probably fine if your at the MX track and rippen all day. I think the bikes great for the woods. Just needs too be tuned.

Jon

One tooth up on the front would definitely make it less responsive to the throttle.

I may try a gear change. I have to say its a little annoying. It would be nice to fix the problem. Its probably fine if your at the MX track and rippen all day. I think the bikes great for the woods. Just needs too be tuned.

Jon

The "problem" is it is a MX bike trying to be ridden in the woods , and by a novice rider , there is not much "fixing" you can do with that , it is the same exact issue people riding 450's encounter , a MX bike was not thought of during production to be anything else except a "race bike" , so though some of the attributes are things you like , the things you do not like are the very things that make it a good MX bike ......

I ride my 450R in the woods , and it made me think of 1 more item you can try ...... a heavier flywheel , or a flywheel weight , it will somewhat (it will add to gearing) help mellow the hit of the bike and make it more manageable , and it will help with stalling , I primarily ride my R on the track , but on occasion I do ride it in the tight woods , I also use it as a loner bike to some of my friends , those friends do not have a bike , and are also less experienced , what I do is run a 52 tooth rear sprocket (I use the stock 13 up front , and when I ride it , I run a 48 rear on the track , and 13/52 is the same gearing I use on my 450X **stock is 13/51**) , but the combo of gearing and flywheel weight , allows my less experienced friends the ability to ride the bike and for the most part , unless it is caused by lack of experience , they do fine with it and only stall occasionally or struggle in tougher spots , where without those changes , they would be miserable and struggle everywhere .........

The trick is , to buy a longer chain (I run a 120 link) and cut it down to the regular gearing links needed , but I buy a extra master link , and save the links I removed , then when I gear down (which is by using a larger sprocket) I add the links necessary ,then cut those to the length needed , then use the 2nd master link to join the 2 , what I now have is the ability to go from stock gearing , to lower gearing , using 1 chain , and all I am changing is the rear sprocket and adding the extra links ..... so it keeps the cost down , and gives a wide range of gearing combos , you can add 2 links if needed to add more chain length , by taking what you did not use with the extra link , and adding the remaining link/s , it will not weaken the chain or cause any issues (just make sure all the open ends of the link clips face backwards when that section of chain is at the top of the swingarm) ........

I appreciate the replies. I think they will all work to an extent. I think it is an MX bike and definetly runs like one. She has no problem with stalling or the power. My MT-10 has the light switch effect. My KTM 350 had it and it was fixed my adjusting the cables. The MT-10 was better after a reflash but still has a little. I'm going to try and post a link from Vortex. It shows a timing graph. If its accurate you will see why its like a light switch.

https://www.vortexcdi.com/model_product ... &mp_id=928

i don't want to spend the money, but it would be cool to smooth that timing curve out. I still have to do some research.

Jon

The thing that concerns me about what I just read is this statement "Easy to use PC software for Windows 95, 98 XP " , it says nothing about Windows 7 or 8 or 10 , I have old disks of the older Windows , but most people don't , so not sure if they just did not update their page to show current operating systems , or that it is not compatible with anything other than the 3 obsolete operating systems they mentioned ..... I would also be concerned whether it saves your current mapping , so if something goes wrong or you don't like or need that map any longer , you can revert back to original

Not trying to rain on your parade , but for me , the gearing and flywheel weight would be a better option ...... but as mentioned you still have things to research ....

Jim brought up a great suggestion that gets overlooked often. A flywheel weight. Makes a huge difference and is a fairly reasonable priced modification to make. Not sure if they make one for your bike but it's worth checking.

I'm thinking flywheel and stator. I'd like to fix the root cause first. If she road a 2 smoke I would have got her a KTM or Husky,

Yea , but their (KTM/Husky) 150 2T is still a handful ....still would be taming that one down a bit as well ....