Part Out vs Selling Whole
  • stavendirtbike
    Posts: 7
    Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:06 am

    Part Out vs Selling Whole

    by stavendirtbike » Tue May 21, 2019 7:57 pm

    Has anyone here been down this road before?

    Got a 2013 CRF250R. Owned the bike a few years and it has been a great bike. Unfortunately, just today the bike has turned into a complete nightmare. Partly because of my own mistakes and partly because of the previous owner.

    Before the new riding season kicked off I decided to send my suspension in to Factory Connection for a full rebuild service... roughly $600.

    I decided to check the valves. Found 3 of the 4 to be tight/out of spec. I adjusted accordingly. Here is where I screwed up. I decided to get an ECU tune BEFORE ops checking the engine after the valve adjustments. Bike doesn't start. Double checked timing and my valve adjustments. All good there. Have spark. Still need to do some fuel checks. Speaking of, if anyone can provide some good fuel checks to do it would be greatly appreciated! So far I only tested power to fuel pump (black wire) which is present.

    Since owning the bike, I will admit I never removed the skid plate. I removed it to clean under the engine to kinda "clear my head" and my problems only got worse. Hiding under the undented skid plate is a completely bashed in frame rail with 2 cracks:

    0816-DF13-8-B9-D-413-D-925-A-881-E5361-F

    2-D673-A7-A-02-A6-40-F9-9-EB5-52-B158-B6

    So now I have a bike that won't start and has a compromised frame. Maybe because of my valve adjustment service which I can't see why. Maybe a faulty ECM? No idea because I did both at same time. Maybe a pinched wire? Maybe a faulty pump? Who knows. The frame was known by the scummy PO for sure. Tried hiding it with a new skid plate. I got screwed hard on that one.

    I really really have been itching to go back to two strokes. What would you do here? Part out? Try to get it running and sell as a running parts bike? Sell it whole and not running? Of course the compromised frame will be disclosed no matter which path.
  • User avatar
    JimDirt
    Posts: 3228
    Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:31 pm

    Re: Part Out vs Selling Whole

    by JimDirt » Wed May 22, 2019 12:15 am

    You "could" find a used frame on EBay , that is one option as far as that goes , if it's cheap enough , you can either sell it and still do OK , or keep it and know your now riding a bike that won't fail on the next jump .....

    As far as what is wrong with the engine .... If it ran before the valve adjustment , then it would suggest that it was something you did , by either reassembling wrong , or , forgetting to plug something in , or , pulling the coil power wire off when the tank was removed and it was not noticed , or , blew a fuse

    It could also be possible that the fuel filter is clogged , or as you mentioned , that the pump may have just decided to quit working :-k ..... in order to test the PGM-FI system , you will need to buy a Factory Service Manual , as the Owners Manual will not have the testing procedures , and you have the Injector Circuit , #1 or #2 CKP Sensor that could cause it not to start , along with any FI issues , like the pump itself ....... As far as connections go , check the MAP Sensor connection , the ECT Sensor connection , the TP Sensor connection , the IAT Sensor connection , the Injector connector , the #1/#2 CKP Sensor connector , the ECM connector , all located around the Throttle Body ..... Since you can't actually start it , you won't get any Error Code flashes from the Map button on the bar , so hopefully , you just inadvertently forgot to plug something back in , or unplugged something by pulling on the connection , and it looks like its connected , but a wire could be pulled back enough to not complete the connection ........

    Basically , you need to decide if after checking everything , if you want to spend the money on a Service Manual ($50-$60) and try to troubleshoot the sensors , etc. , or cut ties with the bike and either sell it as a parts bike/basket case , or go to the effort to sell it on EBay , which would include disassembling everything , and packaging the parts up and waiting for each item to sell , then finding a scrap yard that will let you part out the frame for the Aluminum cost (you will need to provide them a Title) , and using the money from selling everything (eventually) for a new/used bike

    Its a tough call either way , as it could be something simple and it's running again , BUT , you still will have the frame to deal with , but you will get more out of it quicker if the bike was running , but if you can wait it out , you can make a lot more by parting it out on EBay

    Keep us informed on your findings , and your decision to keep/sell 8-[
    02 CRF450R
    06 CRF450X
    Image
    Weiser , Idaho
  • Back2-2
    Posts: 744
    Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2011 3:31 pm

    Re: Part Out vs Selling Whole

    by Back2-2 » Wed May 22, 2019 7:07 am

    Comments of the frame cracks - Any competent welder can easily TIG weld a fix for that frame. The labor involved to strip in down to be able to make the repair is the biggest issue with the repair. Aluminum frames are a piece of cake to fix. Done several myself.

    As for parting it out which I have also done many bikes. It all depends of what you have into the bike. If you purchased a bike cheap enough you can make many times over the purchase price. But, it is very time consuming to disassemble, clean, list. box and ship and of coarse give ebay their cut of 10+%. Use USPS priority preset box price in your adds so you do not get bit on shipping costs.
    I have made as much as 10 times over on some part-out bikes. But you have to get them very cheap. Aftermarket parts on parting out jobs bring in the good money. OEM parts not so much.

    Like Jim stated - if the bike ran good before the valve adjustments then it's going to require just back tracking and find the problem to get the bike back and running. Beware that if you just shim it you are going to be in for a full valve replacement / head work very soon. So it boils down to how much you like the bike and want to keep it.
    Don't let the cracks in the frame dome a good bike if you like it. That's easily repairable.
    Neil
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Life without Motorcycles would just be boring, really boring
  • stavendirtbike
    Posts: 7
    Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:06 am

    Re: Part Out vs Selling Whole

    by stavendirtbike » Wed May 22, 2019 12:00 pm

    Sometimes it's good to back away from problems and revisit it. Got the engine running and corrected an issue due to my mistake. Triple checked the timing and all was good. I did notice it was kicking over a bit harder than prior to the valve adjustment but I wasn't sure since I went away for a few weeks on vacation.

    I read from a few sources that the tensioner could simply be removed and installed without actually messing around with the center extractor screw. Well that is completely false. The tensioner was fully extended causing that extra felt resistance. I watched a good youtube video of a gentleman stating at the end of the video that a lot of folks get this wrong. Sure enough, I got a precision screwdriver and "reset" the tensioner. I immediately could feel the way it should be feeling thru the kickstart after I did this.

    2 swift kicks and it fired up. Engine running great.

    Gonna have a coworker weld up that frame damage and carry on.
  • Back2-2
    Posts: 744
    Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2011 3:31 pm

    Re: Part Out vs Selling Whole

    by Back2-2 » Thu May 23, 2019 1:27 pm

    Sounds like a good plan. =DD
    Neil
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Life without Motorcycles would just be boring, really boring

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