Yea with IMGUR , go to the picture and click , then when the image opens you see the links to the right , use the second to last code (near bottom) that says BBCode (message boards & forums) , copy and paste each link (paste , then hit ENTER then paste the next link right below the prior) do that with each picture , as I posted in my example and it will show up fineTo WRT to the images, it was one link with four photos within that link. Lesson learned!
Anyways,
I ran my hand over the grooves on the piston and the cylinder wall and they felt smooth. When I ran my fingernail over the cylinder wall, it felt rough (but that makes sense... cause don't you want the cylinder wall to be rough?). The roughness did feel consistent, however.
I'll order a new piston (Wiseco with a 13:5 compression rating, adherant to the box I found). I am curious - what did you see that drove the piston change? Was it the ridges? (I'm asking because the assumed OEM piston had the same ridges, but further up).
Finally, I'll order a new timing change. Shesh!
Also, final question. With this brand-spanking-awesome-piston, I should be able to put close to 2k Miles on it before I have to change it, correct? (I'm asking because ideally - I'd like to do some pre-runs and make sure the bike is reliable before I make my great race)
Final question before I wait for parts to arrive. Is there a good chance that the piston became very worn after just 500 miles of use (with my oil messup)? Or is there a good chance this is from the previous owner? Or is it hard to tell?Yea with IMGUR , go to the picture and click , then when the image opens you see the links to the right , use the second to last code (near bottom) that says BBCode (message boards & forums) , copy and paste each link (paste , then hit ENTER then paste the next link right below the prior) do that with each picture , as I posted in my example and it will show up fineTo WRT to the images, it was one link with four photos within that link. Lesson learned!
Anyways,
I ran my hand over the grooves on the piston and the cylinder wall and they felt smooth. When I ran my fingernail over the cylinder wall, it felt rough (but that makes sense... cause don't you want the cylinder wall to be rough?). The roughness did feel consistent, however.
I'll order a new piston (Wiseco with a 13:5 compression rating, adherant to the box I found). I am curious - what did you see that drove the piston change? Was it the ridges? (I'm asking because the assumed OEM piston had the same ridges, but further up).
Finally, I'll order a new timing change. Shesh!
Also, final question. With this brand-spanking-awesome-piston, I should be able to put close to 2k Miles on it before I have to change it, correct? (I'm asking because ideally - I'd like to do some pre-runs and make sure the bike is reliable before I make my great race)
What I saw on the skirt was the wear , you notice the grooving and patterned part of the skirt , that is a Teflon coating , when it wears thru , the piston will have side to side slop , in other words the piston can rock back and forth while going up/down in the cylinder , possibly leading to the skirt breaking and causing all sorts of havoc inside the engine , basically when the skirt is showing signs of wear (even less than what showed in your picture) then its time to replace the piston , you will note on the new piston , it will have a nicely coated skirt (the same Teflon in your frying pans , so you know when it wears the food sticks and the pan does not work as well , same goes for the piston) , not to mention that layer that is now worn off , now makes the gap between the piston and cylinder larger , so it contributes to side to side slop , and oil blow by , as well as compression loss , as well as rattling , put your hand inside a drink pitcher , then bang your hand around inside the pitcher , that is what the piston is doing in the cylinder....
This is a worn piston on the left and new on right (same piston) , notice the difference in the wear on the skirt , yours looks much worse than that
I would not see any reason why you could not put a few thousand miles on the new piston , if you keep the oil clean , and don't bounce the engine off the rev limiter , and don't allow it to overheat , it should last thru your riding adventure and then some .... , I track ride one of my bikes and get 2-3 seasons out of a piston , its all about keeping the inside of the engine clean (make sure your air filter is always clean , and oiled properly , you do not want to see dirt on the inside of the airbox snorkel on the inside boot towards the carb , past the filter , this is what scratches pistons , and takes out your valves real quick)
And yes , any time you tear the top end down , its good practice to replace the Timing Chain , they are relatively inexpensive , and they do stretch just like a drive chain does , so when doing a tear down , make that part of your "maintenance" .........
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