[Tate007]

So let me start this off. I didn’t do the rebuild. So idk. Haven’t check any internal yet. It’s not the gas, or filter. Checked those. 99% sure it’s not the carb but idk. I’m new to 4 thumpers. It won’t start without putting in way to much effort. It’ll start if you sell your soul to Satan kicking it. I choke, twist throttle then start, like they reccomend. Yet nothing. It’ll almost start sometimes but no lt quite. It runs awesome once it’s started but it’s a pain to start. 50+ kicks. Is it the valves? And if so can you post a link? Thank you have a good one!

[Tate007]

Sorry for the broken English lol I’m about to launch this bike into the pond

[JimDirt]

Welcome to the site !!

It is sounding like it could be the valves , you need to check them , it's not that hard to do , just remove the Seat , Gas Tank ,Valve Cover , then get all the marks aligned , there are 2 notch marks on the cam sprocket , like this - - , they need to be level with the head and a arrow behind the cam sprocket , the cam lobe needs to face backwards at about the 2 O'clock position when looking from the ignition side(shifter side) , then behind the small round plug on ignition cover , inside hole is a notch , it needs to be aligned with mark on Flywheel , then on the clutch cover there is a large round plug , in the hole on the front side is a arrow and on the gear is a dot , those need to be aligned ALL at the same time , this will indicate TDC , you can then check your valves

Intake: 0.12mm (plus or minus 0.03mm) or equal to 0.005 in. (plus or minus 0.001 in.)
Exhaust: 0.28mm (plus or minus 0.03mm) or equal to 0.011 in. (plus or minus 0.001 in.)

Report back with findings , and we can go from there

[Tate007]

Welcome to the site !!

It is sounding like it could be the valves , you need to check them , it's not that hard to do , just remove the Seat , Gas Tank ,Valve Cover , then get all the marks aligned , there are 2 notch marks on the cam sprocket , like this - - , they need to be level with the head and a arrow behind the cam sprocket , the cam lobe needs to face backwards at about the 2 O'clock position when looking from the ignition side(shifter side) , then behind the small round plug on ignition cover , inside hole is a notch , it needs to be aligned with mark on Flywheel , then on the clutch cover there is a large round plug , in the hole on the front side is a arrow and on the gear is a dot , those need to be aligned ALL at the same time , this will indicate TDC , you can then check your valves

Intake: 0.12mm (plus or minus 0.03mm) or equal to 0.005 in. (plus or minus 0.001 in.)
Exhaust: 0.28mm (plus or minus 0.03mm) or equal to 0.011 in. (plus or minus 0.001 in.)

Report back with findings , and we can go from there

Sweet thanks! Is a YouTube video ok to go off of? And the manual obvi

[JimDirt]

Yes , just make sure all marks are aligned , as that is important to get a correct measurement

[Tate007]

Yes , just make sure all marks are aligned , as that is important to get a correct measurement

Now how hard should I slide the feeler gauge in there? Should I cram it or take it easy to where I feel a little resistance but not too much?

[JimDirt]

Yes , just slide it in , when you get slight resistance but it moves in and out easily , that is where it should be for correct gap reading , if you force it , you are essentially pushing the valve stem down (under the cup) and you will not be accurate

Basically as if you were pinching a piece of paper between your index finger and thumb , then slide the paper thru the fingers , you want enough resistance to keep the paper in your fingers , but not tear it

[Tate007]

Yes , just slide it in , when you get slight resistance but it moves in and out easily , that is where it should be for correct gap reading , if you force it , you are essentially pushing the valve stem down (under the cup) and you will not be accurate

Basically as if you were pinching a piece of paper between your index finger and thumb , then slide the paper thru the fingers , you want enough resistance to keep the paper in your fingers , but not tear it

Ok so should I measure when the cup is on it or not? By the cup I mean where the cam hits when the engine is together, that little upside down cup. Or measure without the cup on it?

[JimDirt]

Yes , just slide it in , when you get slight resistance but it moves in and out easily , that is where it should be for correct gap reading , if you force it , you are essentially pushing the valve stem down (under the cup) and you will not be accurate

Basically as if you were pinching a piece of paper between your index finger and thumb , then slide the paper thru the fingers , you want enough resistance to keep the paper in your fingers , but not tear it

Ok so should I measure when the cup is on it or not? By the cup I mean where the cam hits when the engine is together, that little upside down cup. Or measure without the cup on it?

Yes you always measure with the cup on , as it is the gap that the cam lobe needs between the lobe and the cup , otherwise it would hold the valve open slightly if there was no clearance , and your bike would not run well , if at all , as well as if the cam lobe was riding directly on the valve , the cam would be destroyed within a few minutes of running , the cup is a buffer , to keep the cam from being in direct contact with the valve

[Tate007]

Yes , just slide it in , when you get slight resistance but it moves in and out easily , that is where it should be for correct gap reading , if you force it , you are essentially pushing the valve stem down (under the cup) and you will not be accurate

Basically as if you were pinching a piece of paper between your index finger and thumb , then slide the paper thru the fingers , you want enough resistance to keep the paper in your fingers , but not tear it

Hey I tore it apart, shimmed. Put nothing has changed. What else?

[JimDirt]

OK , if you are 100% positive it has FRESH gas , and valves are in spec , and the carb is clean as well as the jets , then its possible its your starting procedure .....Try this , when its cold , twist the throttle 4-6 times (your pumping the accelerator pump) , this should get fuel into the intake , then pull the choke , then kick it like you mean it , don't kick it gently like a 2 stroke , put some beef into the kick , it should start within 2-4 kicks .... after riding , if it does not want to start (say like after a crash/tip over) , then pull the Hot Start Lever on the clutch side (the little lever attached to the clutch perch) , and give the bike a firm kick , and it should start right up

It is possible that the jetting is off for your elevation , and that could be adding to the starting issue .... try that and report back with findings ....