by JimDirt » Fri May 14, 2021 9:57 am
Honestly , it depends on the hours on it , and how it was used/abused by the prior owner ... you can go much past 100 hours on these bikes , my 02 I was at over 400 hours since the last piston change , and never needed to do a crank in the 12 years I had it , I ride my bikes somewhat hard , but I don't abuse them , oil changes , and air filter cleanliness goes a long way as to keeping these engines alive ... My plan on my 2020 is to do a piston at 100 hours regardless of what it looks like , I will most likely replace it with OEM or Vertex or JE , I am at 62 hours currently , mainly because I have not ridden in over a month due to needing to do some major remodeling at home , so unfortunately , my riding suffers , but I would have been close to 80 hours by now , as I average about 8 -10 hours a month on it , weekends only for the most part , sometimes I get to squeeze in 4 days of riding , but mostly 2 days per week/weekend
With that said , a compression check will give you some idea of how the engine is ... bottom ends can go a while , and generally unless you are racing hard (Pro level or close) a crank will last most of the life of the bike , unless a valve cuts loose or you have deep pockets and can go ahead and replace everything from time to time , as it gets to be a spendy rebuild (not really much more than a 2 stroke , but still a lot of money) ..... When you replace the valves , unless you are seriously racing and concerned about grams of weight , I would go with Stainless Intakes , I ran them on my 02 and have them on my 06 450X , and I have not had to do a valve adjustment on it since 2006 when I had them installed , if that says anything ... and on my old R , I rode it hard and the engine had plenty of punch , the Stainless did not affect the power in any way a "non Pro" would notice ... or you could get a complete head or have yours redone by Ken here , he has good prices on ready to go heads ... you have to be careful in getting the valves redone , most automotive machine shops don't have a clue as to how to properly do the valves on these bikes , if they cut the seats too deep they will limit the shim size , as the deeper the seat is cut , the smaller shim can fit , leading to the same issue as when your valves go bad , no shim that will fit in the remaining space , as the smallest shim is it , when you get to it or close you have no adjustment left and the head is toast ... so going to a reputable shop that knows these bikes is critical when making choices like that
If you tear down the top , check the piston for skirt wear , if its scratched or worn , replace it , then check the rod movement , side to side up/down , if anything beyond spec is noticed , replace the crank while you have it down , if a valve hits a piston , the crank , or rather rod bearings will be toast , so you want to avoid dropping a valve , as it will cost a new head , possibly cylinder and crank , and maybe even cases , so if the valves are moving , it is time to consider getting the valves done sooner than later... when doing a piston or replacing valves , ALWAYS , replace the timing chain
Otherwise , ride it for a few hours , and check the valves , if everything checks out to be the same specs as when you checked it last , then go have fun and ride , and maybe check them after another 10 or so hours , if they don't move , then keep riding , and maybe if you are concerned , do a refresh in the winter when riding season is over , that is when I do any major maintenance ... never during riding season unless something goes wrong and is mandatory to tear the bike down aside from regular maintenance before/after a ride
I do all bearings , either re-grease or replace in winter , I do any major revamping in winter , fork oil , shock oil , muffler repacking , so spring time comes , and I am ready to ride with a fresh bike that should last all season without issues ...
2020 CRF450R
2006 CRF450X

Weiser , Idaho