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My Problem:

I have a 2007 Crf 250r project bike that I've been working on for quiet a while. The crankshaft was shattered and the piston was pretty messed up. I replaced everything that needed to be replaced. When putting the freshly built engine back on the frame I totally forgot to check if the clutch worked. The bike starts up and runs perfect but when pulling in the clutch lever to engage the clutch, the clutch doesn't want to engage.

What I've checked already:

I watched a few videos on how a clutch works and what could cause a clutch not to engage. First I checked the if the cable is pulling hard enough to engage the Clutch Lifter Lever, its is. I took of the clutch cover and the right crank case cover off the bike to get a better look at the clutch itself. When pulling in the clutch I can see that the Clutch Pressure Plate is being pushed out (the way a normal clutch should) but it still doesn't engage. I've taken the Friction Plates and the Clutch Plates off, cleaned them, and inspected them and they still seem to be in spec. While taking a look at the Clutch Basket itself though I did notice some grooving in the fingers of the Clutch Basket. Also a finger on the Clutch Center is broke off but the Clutch Plates still slip onto the Clutch Center Hub with ease.

My Question:

What could cause the clutch not to engage? Could the grooved Clutch Basket or the broken finger on the Clutch Center Hub cause the clutch not to engage? Any information or help would be very much appreciated! Thank you for your time .

Just so we understand do you mean

The clutch continues to drive the gearbox. Engaged
Or
You have no drive. Disengaged

Just so we understand do you mean

The clutch continues to drive the gearbox. Engaged
Or
You have no drive. Disengaged

The clutch continues to drive the gearbox engaged.

A badly grooved clutch basket can cause it not to disengage as the plates don't slide apart because of the grooves. The plates themselves get wear marks as well meaning they don't slide well anyway.

Do you have pictures of what your clutch is like.

A badly grooved clutch basket can cause it not to disengage as the plates don't slide apart because of the grooves. The plates themselves get wear marks as well meaning they don't slide well anyway.

Do you have pictures of what your clutch is like.

Yes here are some photos of the clutch:

https://imgur.com/a/45yeL2L

Well that is nicely grooved and definitely wouldn't help.
I have seen worse. How deep do you reckon the grooves are?
Is there wear on the driving ears of the plates?

Some look deeper than others but that could just be the photo.

You could try very carefully filing the grooves flat, but if you have a broken finger so now would be the time to replace.

Make sure bearings and washers are in good shape too or just replace at same time. You don't what the basket to wobble because of the bearing being a little worn.

Well that is nicely grooved and definitely wouldn't help.
I have seen worse. How deep do you reckon the grooves are?
Is there wear on the driving ears of the plates?

Some look deeper than others but that could just be the photo.

You could try very carefully filing the grooves flat, but if you have a broken finger so now would be the time to replace.

Make sure bearings and washers are in good shape too or just replace at same time. You don't what the basket to wobble because of the bearing being a little worn.

So you think replacing the clutch basket and the clutch center will fix the problem?

Well as long as you are happy the lever and cable adjustment is correct and the pushrod it not worn I can't see much else being the issue.

You said the pressure plate moves to allow the plates to seperate, but apparently they are not.

I assume the correct number and thickness of fibre and steels are in the assembly.

It couldnt be anything internal right? Like something wrong with the transmission?

With the clutch plates out does turning the engine still drive the gearbox?

Unfortunately clutch baskets, plates, springs etc are consumables.
As I said you can carefully file the grooves out ( keeping things parallel and even) and taking the same amount off each. You can then give that a try and see if that makes thing better.
It will groove up again and probably only last a while but it will get you out riding.
You normally can file down once as you don't want the gap to large between the plates and the fingers.

If you don't have motorcycle specific oil in the transmission it can either cause the clutch to slip from friction modifiers or not let go because the fibre plates have swollen.

Yes with the clutch engaged it still drives the rear wheel. I am definitely going to try and file down the clutch basket first and see if that fixes it. I rather get a little bit more life out of it then spend the money on a new clutch lol. I only put the Honda specified motor oil in it.