[BBLRacing]

Hello, new to the forum but I have a acquired a 2010 CRF250R injection model with no spark,

I have gone through and tested all the loom and every wire has Continuity from the ECU plug to each plug or connector, Stator has all the right peak voltage and resistance readings, fuel pump works with a 5V tester, Injector opens with 5V tester, Reg/Rec readings seem fine, Newley rebuilt engine with correct compression, timing all spot on, ignition coil has correct readings and resistance, I know the Kill Switch is not working as I have no Continuity between the two wires at the White plug when I push the kill button, the Map light works when I connect a 5V to the white/black wires at the white plug.

My worry is which I need some clarification on is: I have no voltage reading at the Condenser plug when I turn on the 5V tester at the fuel pump (red) connector end so the manual says to check for open Green/Black wires which ive done and nothing is open but what I have is with the ECU plugged in I have continuity between the Black & Green wires at the Condenser plug and when I disconnect the ECU I have no Continuity but am I right in thinking I shouldn't get any continuity even with the ECU plugged in?

bike has a Vortex ECU fitted

[JimDirt]

Welcome to the site !! Well actually ....Welcome to your first post

What I am thinking is the kill switch is what is causing the issue , I believe on the EFI bikes that it is integral to the running , I know on the 17+ bikes if the kill switch gets wet (yea I know its a dirt bike right ??) the bike will not run ........ what I would do is replace the kill switch (with a Honda one) and that "should give you spark back , as I am guessing it is grounding out , so no spark , when its disconnected , then the circuit is not complete , hence the janky readings you are getting ...... maybe Neil or Ray can chime in here , and give some other thoughts , but that would be my first guess .......

I would also double check all the adjustments to the Vortex .... If you have the stock ECU , then I would swap it out to see if there is any difference in readings .....

[Back2-2]

Well it certainly sounds like you have done a pretty thorough investigation. You said you know the kill switch is bad. As Jim stated that may well be the issue. I do not have a electrical schematic but Jim may be correct that the kill switch is require to complete the circuit. Next would be as Jim said the aftermarket ECU being suspect.
Grounds also are vital to the electronics and many times over looked. Not just connected but a good clean ground connection.

[Aussiecrf230]

A good way to test grounds is check from the connector(not the bolt or screw) to engine ground.
The other test I do is measure voltage between engine ground and the abovementioned connector when things are suppose to be on. If you get above 0 volts then clean as Neil said.

On the power side just because you get full voltage doesn't mean you can get enough current to drive things.
I have had corrosion in the wire just back from the connector which still indicated voltage but obviously low current. Test lights are useful in this situation.