[Superstocker]

I just bought my 06 in april and have rode quite a bit. I just began having problems with the bike this passed weekend so i decided to tear into it tonight. The valves appear to be too tight, the feeler gauge would barely fit between the shim and rockerarm. I would assume if anything it would wear out and i would have to add thickness not take it away. I dont have the specs infront of me but I will be sure and get them up tomorrow for everyone to check out. any input is greatly appreciated.

[124]

Welcome Superstocker. What is your question?

[Superstocker]

I just found it quite odd that the valves were tight instead of loose. I was basically wondering if anyone has ran into the same kind of problem?

[124]

That's the process. As the valve stem wears at the guide, it allows a small amount of wobble. This wobble creates an incorrect valve to seat angle. The incorrect valve to seat angle creates wear at the contact spot on the valve (and the seat). This wear allows the valve to sit farther into the seat, which in turn closes the valve clearance to the cam. Hence the reason why you put smaller shims to open the clearance back up. Capeesh?

Now that you know there is the incorrect valve clearance, you must shim. Do you have a service manual? If not, get one immediately. Many here at CRF's claim the Haynes/Clymer manuals are very good. I prefer the Honda service manual and can be purchased at www.helminc.com

Now that you have the 1st shim performed, my suggestion is to order some stainless valvetrain replacement parts now. That way when the time comes and you cannot shim any longer, you'll be ready for the overhaul with parts in hand. BTW - I do not recommend using anything smaller than a 130 shim. The valve angle is so thin by then, you increase the risk of sucking a valve and creating much bigger problems.

I posted a basic valvetrain maintenance How-To detailing the steps to replace everything. You may get 6 months from your first shim, but be prepared, your time is ticking. Check the valve clearances more often now.

[Superstocker]

That's the process. As the valve stem wears at the guide, it allows a small amount of wobble. This wobble creates an incorrect valve to seat angle. The incorrect valve to seat angle creates wear at the contact spot on the valve (and the seat). This wear allows the valve to sit farther into the seat, which in turn closes the valve clearance to the cam. Hence the reason why you put smaller shims to open the clearance back up. Capeesh?

Now that you know there is the incorrect valve clearance, you must shim. Do you have a service manual? If not, get one immediately. Many here at CRF's claim the Haynes/Clymer manuals are very good. I prefer the Honda service manual and can be purchased at www.helminc.com

Now that you have the 1st shim performed, my suggestion is to order some stainless valvetrain replacement parts now. That way when the time comes and you cannot shim any longer, you'll be ready for the overhaul with parts in hand. BTW - I do not recommend using anything smaller than a 130 shim. The valve angle is so thin by then, you increase the risk of sucking a valve and creating much bigger problems.

I posted a basic valvetrain maintenance How-To detailing the steps to replace everything. You may get 6 months from your first shim, but be prepared, your time is ticking. Check the valve clearances more often now.

I really appreciate you breaking it down for me like that. Im going to have to check which shims I need as i still have it apart.

[cromoly]

I am in the same boat.. just further down the river... i am at my 130 shim and have stopped riding and am pricing this pending valve job.... Here is the thing and I need assistance... I plan on having this bike for another year befor i upgrade to a 450r... I plan on putting stock valve back into the bike rather than investing in stainless..other than gaskets do I need to have any other parts? IE. can i reuse the springs..ect....

Additionally, the local honda dealer is gonna charge me about $250 for the service plus parts. I can shim this thing with my eyes closed, but have never done valves. Should i attempt it..or pay the $250? IE. is it worth the $250?

FYI.. i dont race, i ride desert trails 2 or 3 times per month and get to the dunes 4 or 5 times a season... the bike does not get what i consider high use where i have it rev'd out and screaming. I bought it used and who knows what the guy before me did...

[124]

I am in the same boat.. just further down the river... i am at my 130 shim and have stopped riding and am pricing this pending valve job.... Here is the thing and I need assistance... I plan on having this bike for another year befor i upgrade to a 450r... I plan on putting stock valve back into the bike rather than investing in stainless..other than gaskets do I need to have any other parts? IE. can i reuse the springs..ect....

Additionally, the local honda dealer is gonna charge me about $250 for the service plus parts. I can shim this thing with my eyes closed, but have never done valves. Should i attempt it..or pay the $250? IE. is it worth the $250?

FYI.. i dont race, i ride desert trails 2 or 3 times per month and get to the dunes 4 or 5 times a season... the bike does not get what i consider high use where i have it rev'd out and screaming. I bought it used and who knows what the guy before me did...

You can put OE equipment back in it if you want to go the cheap route. The springs should be re-usable, but always should be checked upon dis-assembly against spec to make sure they're not worn. The $250 the dealer is charging you includes valve seat machining. It's about $80 high in price, but if that's the only place close to you that can do it...you don't have much choice. Headwork including the valvetrain R & R is usually around $150-175 in my part of the world...

[TDW]

Cromoly, if you shim the valves with no problem you can probably r&r the cyl head also if you want to and have a few tools. Some guys wouldnt mess with it for $250 and have someone else do it, but I prefer to do whatever I can if my bike needs service. I see your in Az also, when I did a top end on my bike I found a shop in Tempe Az that I think did a real good job of cutting the seats at reasonable price-charged me $75.00. The shop is Short Block Charlies.

[cromoly]

so I orders all of the parts to redo all of the valves, and i found a shop that I can just take the head to and they will swap out all of the valves, cut the seats, ect for like 60 bucks.

When i bought the bike the prevoius owner said the bike had a new piston just put in (he is a friend, so I trust him) My question is what should I look fo in the cylinder or on the piston. There are some deposits on the piston and th cylinder looks clean. The piston has no more that 20-25hrs on it.

The guy at the shop was asking about the power while i was riding, i sad it still pull through all gears and even more than some of my friends older model cr250's which should have more power. He said if that is the case you should be fine.

Long question short what are your thoughts on replacing the piston? (otherthan replace it since i am there.)

[124]

so I orders all of the parts to redo all of the valves, and i found a shop that I can just take the head to and they will swap out all of the valves, cut the seats, ect for like 60 bucks.

When i bought the bike the prevoius owner said the bike had a new piston just put in (he is a friend, so I trust him) My question is what should I look fo in the cylinder or on the piston. There are some deposits on the piston and th cylinder looks clean. The piston has no more that 20-25hrs on it.

The guy at the shop was asking about the power while i was riding, i sad it still pull through all gears and even more than some of my friends older model cr250's which should have more power. He said if that is the case you should be fine.

Long question short what are your thoughts on replacing the piston? (otherthan replace it since i am there.)

The key phrase is "while your there". You'll probably have no issues if you slap it back together with the new head. But, imo, you should at least give the cylinder a good inspection and put a new set of rings in there. You can use this as a guideline for cylinder (step # eight).
http://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13510