[culprit1384]

Ok... I am going to just bite the bullet and replace the whole clutch assembly. Now on to my next question..

I just did a solvent test on the valves and had no leaking whatsoever on any of the valves. Im assuming that means that my seats and valves are fine.. Should i take out the valves and look at them? Should i just replace the valves with new ones and not worry about new seats since mine is sealed nicely? Or should i just leave what i have and check clearances once back together and go from there? Here are some pictures after i cleaned them up..

[crfsonly]

solvent test will not tell you about the condition of your valves or the valve seats. if the valve clearance was tight before you removed the head then you'll need a valve job and new valves.

[culprit1384]

I didnt check the valve clearance before. I guess ill just have them done

[crfsonly]

how many hours on the motor?

[culprit1384]

umm probably about 50-60hours

[crfsonly]

without knowing what the clearance was before taking the head off you have enough hours to consider a valve job.

[Aussiecrf230]

Do the valves and you will have a complete fresh motor.

[culprit1384]

without knowing what the clearance was before taking the head off you have enough hours to consider a valve job.

Ya i am just going to do them.. Might as well because after everything my motor will be practically new...

[crfsonly]

then make sure you have the valve seats professionally cut and seriously consider going with kibblwhite stainless steel valves.

[culprit1384]

then make sure you have the valve seats professionally cut and seriously consider going with kibblwhite stainless steel valves.

Doesnt having stainless intakes slow down acceleration?? I can afford the acceleration in races, even though i know the Kibble's will last longer..

[crfsonly]

you'll hear all kinds of "stories" about loss of hp at the rear wheel with stainless steel intake valves. none of these 'sources' have ever produced a dyno chart showing that loss of hp. in theory stainless intakes and their stiffer springs will consume some horsepower to move them but it's minimal. we've converted all of our crf's to the stainless and were not able to tell the difference from the seat dyno. if you are going to stay with the stock titanium valves then you need the seats replaced with a more compatible material such as MoldStar-90 (what we use)to get maximum longevity.

ken

[culprit1384]

you'll hear all kinds of "stories" about loss of hp at the rear wheel with stainless steel intake valves. none of these 'sources' have ever produced a dyno chart showing that loss of hp. in theory stainless intakes and their stiffer springs will consume some horsepower to move them but it's minimal. we've converted all of our crf's to the stainless and were not able to tell the difference from the seat dyno. if you are going to stay with the stock titanium valves then you need the seats replaced with a more compatible material such as MoldStar-90 (what we use)to get maximum longevity.

ken

Ok.. Hmmm i guess i will also talk to my loacl shiop and grab there opinion as well since they will be doing it. So Moldstar-90 are copper alloy seats? What are the factory seats made out of?

[crfsonly]

on your local "shop"...if they are a Honda shop be cautious. head rebuilding and valve jobs are not a strength for most of them. factory seats are powder alloy iron base seat. poor heat transfer properties which is the primary culprit to the inexpensive stock Ti intake valves.

[culprit1384]

No i never go to Honda for stuff. My local shop does great work..

[culprit1384]

Ok Ken, i need your expertise again!! I have the Wiseco Crank kit and it comes with a ton of bottom end seals.. I have 4 left and i have no clue where they go. Ive looked everywhere on the case and cannot find them..

Big Seal # = 508 28 37 7 and A1
Medium # = 12 25 7 3 and A28882
Smaller # = TC12 22 5 and 2
Smallest # = S10 21 5-1 and 0 23