*Please note* The forks on my 230 from a 1985 cr250, they are 43mm (not 37mm) and they are spaced further apart. If your forks are different, then you will need to rethink the mounting brackets.
The mounting holes in the cowl were too large for the bolts I will use so I installed some grommets.
Next I determined the best available brackets were for electrical conduit 1 ¼. I put some electrical tape under them.
The first snag I ran into was interference from the ICM. The stock bracket was not going to work.
So I used aluminum bar stock from the hardware store and made a new one. Bend it, drill it, cut it, done.
The ICM was still getting hit by the headlight height adjusting screw. The beam height is fine where it is so I turned the screw around and set it with medium strength lock-tight.
The brake line will not traverse over the cowl like it did the number plate. I tried a few different methods. First I removed a portion of the cowl with a dremel. And ran the line behind the cowl.
The line fits a bit tight…
I then removed the brake leaver assembly and ran it thru the cowl.
This looks good so I removed more of the cowl in this area with the dremel.
As you can see in the pic above the ICM is exposed. I found an old oil bottle, cut out a portion then held it in place with the headlight adjustment screw at the top and a small screw at the bottom.
This will work but it is still missing something.
That’s more like it.
Now it needs power. Most of you will want a bar mount switch. I opted for a simple toggle; the wiring is the same either way. However I want to be able to run either one 35W filament or both for a total of 70watts. That will require a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch and a new stator; I’ll save the stator for another “how-to”.
The power-in lead. The wires are tined (soldered), then crimped. I apply a small amount of gasket compound to the wire/connector before I slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the connector.
With all the mud I ride in I want a little extra protection so I apply dielectric compound (spark plug boot grease) to the terminals, then heat-shrink & gasket compound.
This is what I call a gorilla switch, Big & Ugly but it’s Strong.
Mounted
*Please note* The best place for the fuse is in the battery box. I already have one there and that is where I tied the power to. I will remove the one behind the cowl after I play with some different bulbs.
Run a hot wire from the switch and a ground from the green wire on the light to the battery. That is the best way. There is no need to tap in to your bikes electrical system. If you want the wires in a harness then wrap them in electrical tape.
Completed
