Hey man thanks for the reply, Racing and Track riding. Im a West Coast 250C rider. Going to be doing my first National in 250C Limited. Most of the tracks out here are hard packed on the bottom and loose on top in the summer time and in the winter it can hold its moisture decently. I notice I get alot of headshake in the rough sections. Braking and acceleration bumpa going into cornet ls and coming is the most violent. Im assuming it has to do with the stiffer springs. I set all the clickers back to the manual and it was way better then before. But now that my skill level has raised its defanitly harsh. Jumps are fine its mostly braking and acceleration bumps that are violent.
Since you don't want (or don't want to spend the money) to do a re-valve , and only want to work with the clickers , your choices are limited , but what i would suggest as far as "clickers" go , is to go out at least 2 more clicks on the Rebound (counter clockwise) on the fork and shock , and add MORE sag to the shock , to get some of the weight of the forks , and go IN on the High Speed (the 14mm nut adjuster on the shock) 1/4 turn at a time till you notice a difference in harshness in the shock , this will help with the harsh initial hits I am thinking your rebound might be too slow and your hitting all those stutter bumps and the forks are not returning before hitting the next one causing the forks to hammer you and that is what your feeling , right after you adjust , you should notice a difference , if its worse , then go the opposite way (in on the rebound) , as your description is still a bit vague as you are getting different symptoms for different things going on and maybe confusing what one thing is doing and trying to relate it to another issue , when they are each separate issues and need to be addressed separately , so I am trying to decipher what exactly is going on the best I can without actually seeing you ride to see what the bike is doing , as i would still like to know how much travel you are using , as that will help explain things , which is why i mentioned the o-ring on the fork leg (you can just look at the dust on the tube and see where the fork travel ended from the lug to judge travel your using)
You should feel a little less harshness and by lowering the rear (more sag) will help remove some or all of the head shake your getting (you did not mention if your forks are in the standard or raised position in the clamps , so I am suggesting for standard position , if you still get shake , then lower the fork in the clamps till the outer tube is flush with the top of the top clamp) , leave the compression clickers as is for now till you get the Rebound and high speed set to give more comfort , (do not go out too far on the rebound (no more than 4 clicks from the standard position) as you will then start having corner issues such as knifing or pushing) ..... ALSO , very important , make sure your forks are even in the clamps ...
With the bike on the stand , remove the front wheel ,and slide the axle in/out all the way , when it gets to the disk side do you have to raise or lower the tube to get the axle to slide in with no effort ?? , if so , then loosen the right (non brake side) fork in the clamps and move the tube either up or down depending on what you had to do to get the axle in effortlessly and just snug it with 1 screw , then slide the axle in and out , then with the axle out , push up on each fork then release , then reinsert the axle , if its slides right in , your good , if not re-adjust till it is , then when finished re-torque the clamp bolts and re-install the front wheel
When installing the wheel , install the axle till its flush with the lug , install the nut and snug by hand , then tighten the 2 pinch bolts on the disk side , and torque the axle nut , then spin the wheel and grab the front brake making the tire stop hard , do this a few times , then tighten the right pinch bolts , then torque them to spec , this will set your wheel so it is not sucking the forks together creating any pinch issues , doing those 2 things , should ensure your suspension is working free , which will make adjustments much more accurate , as well as make the forks work free and actually improve any harshness that may have been caused by fork and wheel bind , you should do this to the wheel as I described every time you r&r the wheel , after a while you wont think about it and it will become second nature when doing service
This should give you some relief , but i fear you are going to need a revalve as your speed increases , and/or a Pressure spring change (the small spring inside the cartridge in the forks , not the main fork springs) , though 1 rate lighter main springs would be better for your weight , as long as your not doing SX , then you would want to keep the stiffer springs
Hopefully I did not confuse you here , and if your unsure of something keep asking and I will try to explain as best i can , as sometimes i get real anal with my descriptions and it confuses people , so if your unsure of something i said , just ask for more clarity or a breakdown of something specific , as I don't know your mechanical background , so not sure how much you are comfortable with doing or following why I am suggesting a certain change , as we are trying to do this without altering internal components , so there is only so much we can do or have to work with , but it has to be done 1 change at a time , then tested , so you know what is doing what for better or worse
Report back with findings ....