[CerealKiller]

I've beaten the crap out of my '07 CRF 250X for over 30 hours now, and 25 of those hours were knee deep in serious mud. I am totally anal about maintenance and cleaning, but all of the mud has taken it's toll on my fork seals, and now the right side is leaking substantially. Obviously something needs to be done, but how far I go is still undetermined... Can you help?

I am about 150 lbs, and I ride trails. I'm not the best rider, but I'd give myself at least 7 out of 10 for skill. I don't necessarily have any problems with the stock suspension setup, but I don't really have anything to compare it against. I probably don't need the best setup ever, but since I'm going to be taking it apart I might as well explore my options. I am very mechanically inclined and I've got a great set of hand tools, but no suspension specific tools. Lots of questions to follow...

Do I only replace the seals and outer oil?
Should I just get it over with and replace the shim stack / springs while I'm in there?
Can you recommend a shim stack/spring for my weight and riding? Which oil is the best and what weight should I look at?
Which tools are absolutely necessary and which ones just plain make life easier?

Or am I getting ahead of myself? Should I just take it down to the local suspension shop and pay them? I am really not worried about the costs associated, but I am really excited to take my time and do the job in my garage. Learning something new is always a bonus to this great hobby.

Thanks for any recommendations, I realize it's a tricky subject and suspension is subjective. I've spent some time reading through this forum and the horror stories don't really scare me (such as a busted inner seal not allowing a proper bleed). I figure if I take my time and enjoy myself there isn't anything that can't be taken to the suspension shop anyway.

Cheers!

[CerealKiller]

Also, since I am surely replacing the fork seals - are these really worth it over some new stock Honda seals?
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/1900

How do you guys feel about the Seal Savers?
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/1474

[PaiNLeSS]

The HONDA CRF manuals are very good in describing suspension maintenance procedure - other than the bleeding of the fork inner chambers. Their technique on that is hit and miss, mostly miss...

Filling and bleeding Inner Chamber: The technique that I use is a little messy, but it works flawlessly every time...

After your standard bleeding ( refer to manual ), push the damping rod all the way into the inner chamber. Fill the inner chamber with fluid to just below the two bleed holes. With one hand keep the damping rod fully compressed while with the other hand you insert the compression assembly until you feel its made firm and solid contact with the fluid. Then slowly pull the damping rod down. Suction will pull the compression assembly into the inner chamber as you extend the damping rod.

With the damping rod fully extended, the compression assembly will still lack about an inch from making contact with the threads. Force the compression assembly the rest of the way down with one hand while you're ready with the the other hand, and a 19mm wrench, to thread the cap back on.

Compress damping rod, check for smooth and full extension, pour out excess fluid from bleed holes.

The tools you'll NEED to have other than standard shop equipment are: 47mm Seal driver, Fork Cap Wrench, Damping rod holder, Soft vise jaws.

Tools you already have: 21 mm, 19mm & 17mm wrench, bench vise

Considering your weight, the stock CRF250X spring rates are close enough especially if you're getting good sag numbers with the shock spring.

Try to use OEM oil seals, in the long run you'll be better off. If you're looking at correct maintenance, go ahead and get the inner and outer bushings as well.

Seal Savers are a great investment as well.

Hope this answers most of your questions, but I seriously doubt it will, so I'll check back in and try to help with anything else that I can.

[Asmith]

The oil can be changed without major disassembly but only the oil in the outer chamber. The inner cartridge needs to be removed to change it's oil.

[amaviper]

Is there an easy way to change out the oil in the 450X or do you have to remove / disassemble?

The oil can be changed without major disassembly but only the oil in the outer chamber. The inner cartridge needs to be removed to change it's oil.

Do you have to dump it from the top cap or can you take out the center bolt. I would change more frequently if is was possible to just drain while forks on bike etc. Manual just shows total rebuild.

[Asmith]

Is there an easy way to change out the oil in the 450X or do you have to remove / disassemble?

The oil can be changed without major disassembly but only the oil in the outer chamber. The inner cartridge needs to be removed to change it's oil.

Do you have to dump it from the top cap or can you take out the center bolt. I would change more frequently if is was possible to just drain while forks on bike etc. Manual just shows total rebuild.

Pull the forks and remove the inner chamber. You want to clean everything out inside anyways even if you don't separate the tubes.

[CerealKiller]

Painless - thank you so much!! I am glad these forums are full of great people willing to take time out of their day just to help a stranger. Hopefully I will learn some good stuff and be able to reciprocate in the future.

A couple more questions..

Unfortunately I am not smarter than the average bear, and I never did a sag test when my suspension was in good working order. Now the bike is half dis-assembled and the right side fork is leaking so bad anyway I don't know if a sag test would produce proper results. Unless someone advises different (with good reason) I guess I will just keep my stock spring/shim setup and focus on my riding (equipment can't do everything for you!)

Is there a brand of oil that you prefer? AS?
You say "Inner Chamber" - manual says "Damper" - same thing right?
The manual recommends ~350 cm3 of 5W for the outer, and 192 cm3 (bled to 175 cm3) for the damper. For my weight and riding, would you agree?
With the technique that you posted above, do I do that after following all the damper fill and bleed instructions....or do I use your technique instead of the manual?
In my manual I don't see a "damping rod holder", but there is a tool referred to as a "Piston base". Are these one and the same? If no, what does a damping rod holder look like?
Out of curiosity, why do you recommend the OEM seals over the Factory Connection? Is it just marketing?

Thanks again guys, I am really getting excited about this project!

P.S. - Yes, I release the air pressure after every ride. Cheers!

[Asmith]

I use both Factory Connection FF5 and Race Tech Ultra Slick 2.5-5wt in the shop.

The Factory Connection seals are excellent. They are a touch harder to drive in, but seal as well or better than OEM. The OEM seals are also excellent.

Note: Always order the seals for the X even if you are running the R. The X seals have an extra sealing lip.

The rebound is the inner chamber.

The amount of fluid is a personal thing. 350ml is a good start. If you need more bottoming resistance you can increase that amount slightly. I believe you don't want to exceed 400ml.

The method he recommends is to be done instead of the method in the manual. I fill just slightly above the 45mm recommended in the manual and have very little waste.

An open end 13mm wrench works fine as a damper rod holder.

[PaiNLeSS]

What AngentSmith said, all accurate and very good advice.