inner chamber woes
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    James T Kirk
    Posts: 106
    Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:47 am

    inner chamber woes

    by James T Kirk » Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:26 am

    swapped out my springs with a stiffer set and changed the seals.

    geeeze! getting the air out of the inner chamber by compressing/extending the dampener rod is a major pain! i couldn't get the right fork's dampener rod to extend fully after compressing all the way in. probably about 3/4 return. perhaps some air left in the chamber?

    i really worked hard to get rid of any air:
    slowly push the rod up and down
    tap tap tap, let the chamber sit for 15 minutes
    up and down, tap tap tap, let sit for 30 minutes
    up and down reinstall fork cap

    initally after this routine, when compressing the rod 100cm 4 times it will extend to the full position. but after that, when i compress it all the way to burp out excess oil and air it will no longer extend back to the full length.

    i went through this routine maybe 5 times. then gave up and but the shock back together and went riding.

    i read somewhere about a damper rod oil seal might need to be changed?

  • PaiNLeSS
    Posts: 21
    Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 9:24 pm

    by PaiNLeSS » Thu Oct 02, 2008 9:09 pm

    Could be the seal in the floating piston, or it might be the inner chamber seal. If it's the inner chamber seal you would have probably noticed fluid leaking down the damping rod, so that's probably not it.

    So it's more than likely bleeding technique, or the floating piston seal.

    The technique that I use is a little messy, but it works flawlessly every time...

    After your standard bleeding, push the damping rod all the way into the inner chamber. Fill the inner chamber with fluid to just below the two bleed holes. With one hand keep the damping rod fully compressed while with the other hand you insert the compression assembly until you feel its made firm and solid contact with the fluid. Then slowly pull the damping rod down. Suction will pull the compression assembly into the inner chamber as you extend the damping rod.

    With the damping rod fully extended, the compression assembly will still lack about an inch from making contact with the threads. Force the compression assembly the rest of the way down with one hand while you're ready with the the other hand, and a 19mm wrench, to thread the cap back on.

    Compress damping rod, check for smooth and full extension, pour out excess fluid from bleed holes.
  • dirtae
    Posts: 282
    Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:46 am

    by dirtae » Sat Oct 22, 2011 5:46 pm

    Hate to have to resurrect a very old thread, but I'm having problems almost exactly as the original poster has described with one of my forks.

    The first time I did it the damper rod would extend only 3/4 (which was what it was like initially before the fresh oil...the other fork inner chamber has the rod extending to its full length). The second time the same thing, the 3rd time would only extend back 1/4, and when pushed in there wasn't much resistance. And I did the same thing each time I did it. Whats up here? I have not tried the bleed technique the second poster has described, I didn't have time to try it but I will give it a shot next chance I get. But if after that I still don't get full extension, is it safe to assume that its the seal in the floating piston?

    Anyone else run into this problem?

    Also, am I correct in assuming that the inner cartridge seal is found inside the actual (inner) cartridge, and that the floating piston seal is found on the fork cap assembly (that threads into the inner chamber)?

    O yea, I should mention that the spring on the cap assembly had about a 1/4" of up and down play in it, is this normal? I looked in the Clymer manual and there is no mention of this. I haven't dived into the other inner chamber yet so I can' compare, but if I can get an answer here, even better!

    I realize that this is the reason there are pro's for suspension tuning and service, but I'm trying to save a bit of coin by doing the forks myself, I wouldn't dare touch the rear.

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