[randman1]

Four stroke fever hit and I traded my ole trusty cr250 for a 07 450x, took first trip out last weekend and the
only issue that wasn't a positive issue was that I was taking a beating on the wash board surfaces. Could use
some adjustment advice. To fast on the rebound and/or to hard or soft compression?

[Eric Mac]

The first thing will need to know is how much you wiegh with all your gear on.

[randman1]

I'm 240lbs, also think I found the direction I needed to go yesterday. I put four hours in the saddle and six clicks stiffer on the compression front and rear. starting to ride like a caddy, but with my weight I'm pretty sure by reading some of the other messages the springs won't last long.
I guess shedding my gear isn't an option so, it's either weight or springs.

[Eric Mac]

Have you set your sag? That is the first thing you will need to do, and I doubt you will find the sweet spot without getting stiffer springs. I weigh 210 without gear and ended up getting new boingers for the front and back. Saturday I charged through the whoops like never before. Check out some of the posts regarding spring rate calculators, as that will give you the best idea of what springs to purchase. Swapping them out is no big deal, except trying to find a 46mm wrench. Good luck!

[hwh796]

I read the '07 shootout guys found the same problem with the 450. They described it as "sticking" or "stiction" on the initial travel that was most noted on short travel or speed bumps like whoops. They made it better but didn't resolve it completely by using a forkslyk product. They also said a cheap fix would be to rub the forks down with fork oil. They tried the overflow bladders which was a more expensive fix and helped the problem. But that then created rear suspension problems because the suspension is so balanced in '07. Make sure your sag is spot on too.

[randman1]

No, sag hasn't been set, being a rookie it never crossed my mind. So this weekend I'll have to get a couple budies, beer and barbacue and give it a shot. If the spring pre-load has to exceed the minimum length to obtain the proper rider sag I'll need a stiffer spring or is it actually ok to go past the minimum?
Thanks for the pointers guys!
The sag info of the message board helped clear up the fog.

[Eric Mac]

You will probably be able to put the screws to it and get the sag pretty close, but your spring will be so loaded up that it wont have the same travel that a stiffer spring will have, adjusted in the sweet spot. Of course, I am the village idiot, so take it for what it is worth.

[JAWS]

At 240 lbs you probably won't get your sag set correctly, and believe me, you need it to be right or the handling will suck. You should check the locations for spring rates. I think you will find that you need stronger ones. The best handling bang for the buck is to get your suspension dialed in for your weight and riding style. You will gain a lot of speed due to increased confidence that it will go where you point it and it won't throw you on your butt if you go through some rough stuff.

Joe

[randman1]

Geez I'd only have to toss away 40lbs to save myself the the cost of springs and labor but, where would the fun be in that? No beer, no barbeque, and no tweekin on the bike. I think I'll get the springs, sounds like more fun. So, I'm looking at 5.94kg on the rear, and .494 on the front. Would it be ok to just do the rear first, set the sag and ride for a couple months before doing the front? I love my factory connects off road skid guard, are there springs ok?
Thanks again for the help, I took a beating for years on my 93 cr250, and thought it was just because it was a older bike. Not gonna take that on my new ride.
_______________________________________
remember it's not how well you ride, it's that you ride!

[JAWS]

I know where you are. I am 250lbs. BTW I have Factory Connection springs in my rig, and they work very well. I have a 5.8 rear and .47 front, plus re-valving. I had tried to set my sag with the stockers, but couldn't get close enough without over tightening the rear. That caused my front end to push badly, so I bit the bullet. I have been extremely pleased since.
My spring rates are lighter than the recommended, but I told the guy what type of rider I am. His idea was to make it plush, but still soak up the hits, and that is what I got.

Joe

[randman1]

Alright, before my arm brakes from the gentle twisting to head in the right direction, I'm all in as they say in the poker world.
know a little more information to help aid in my decision. I ride within my means, trail, hills, small air on occasion, and three to four hair scrambles a year (c-class), ride to the finish but, not trying to win or die trying. The people I beat are usually cause I out endured them, not cause I was faster.
Should I maybe back down on the spring rate a tad, like jaws set-up and what about revalving, know nothing about that either???

[JAWS]

You can go with the recommended springs. The idea for my suspension tuner was:I ride mostly trails, get very little air and I don't really use my suspension to it's ultimate very much, if ever. I don't mean to give you the idea that I just poke along, but I am not looking for the gnarliest stuff either.

I wanted a plush ride for the most part, that would work hard as needed. The reason for the valving is to remove or reduce the harshness in the suspension, so you don't feel like you are riding a supercross machine all the time. They both work, but the supercross machine is a lot more harsh over the little stuff.

If you just do the springs, and especially the recommended springs, the ride may be a little stiff. The valving will reduce that a lot. Just something to think about.

I think others on here can attest to the value of the valving.

Joe

[randman1]

You were right jaws, I hit minimum spring length and was not even close to proper sag. However, did find out the rear suspension was a half inch over standard length. So, don't assume a new bike is set to standard off the show room floor.
Now, springs and valves are in the fairly close future. The question is do I do it myself or pay the labor? I've done fork seals on my old bike, fluid changes and of coarse read the great sticky posting by smash. I'm feeling pretty confident I can accomplish the task and maybe have it just tuned by the shop. Of coarse any tips and suggestions are welcome. [/img]

[JAWS]

Following what Smash provides will get it done for springs, seals and fluids. Valving, on the other hand, is more of an art than a science. You can get valve stacks (such as the gold valves by Race Tech)and it may suit you perfectly. Most competent tuners have books of settings that they have used over the years for certain styles and weights. I believe that there was someone that recently changed their valving themselves and used the Race Tech gold valves, or maybe that was XGiant and he chose to let someone else do it at the last minute! Do a search on Race Tech Gold Valve ( select to find all the words) and see what you get.

Joe