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TLDR: Went into the creek. My bike was fully submerged. Got it running. Like an idiot, didn't change fluids or go through carb. Rode it on Highway back to main camp. Lost all power/gears. Still Runs. Thoughts?

Went out riding with the boys and got into some nasty marsh. I took a spill into the creek that ran through the marsh and fully submerged the bike and myself as I flew over the handlebars. I'd give my dive a 9. Anyways, we had done the same thing in past years with a buddy's bike so we started trying to get it going by first opening up the air box and getting all the water out. I drained all the water out of the air box and wrung out the filter really good. Next, leaned it up on its back tire and kicked a few times and a bunch of water spewed from the exhaust. Then, we hooked a tow rope to it to "bump start" it and got it idling pretty well. After about 30min of idling it started to accept fuel and it ran well enough to ride the rest of the 2miles out. I didn't go through the carb and didn't change out fluids at the time (although hindsight...I probably should have).

So, I then decided to ride it back to camp (~7mi) on the highway (50mph+) to "get all the crud out" and make sure it was running ok. I realize now I shouldn't have done that but, play stupid games, win stupid prizes, right!? It was running really good on the highway...no bogging...power was there...I could shift through all the gears, etc. While I was going about 60mph, it just lost all power. No bang or pop or anything. The bike was still running but it was like the bike suddenly went from being in 5th gear to neutral. I could give it gas and it behaved as if you had your bike in neutral and were just revving in up. Pulling in the clutch did nothing and it didn't do anything when I tried to downshift. Basically, the clutch wasn't engaging and the bike seems to behave as if in neutral. So, I came to a rolling stop and realized that it had dumped all of the engine oil. I don't know from where yet. The engine oil is kind of milky indicating that it has water in it. I don't think it dumped the tranny oil.

Any thoughts on what I did to the bike? I know I screwed up by riding the thing hard without proper servicing but there isn't much I can do about that now. I plan on pulling a few covers to see if there is anything obvious but what are y'all's thoughts on what is potentially going on?

I might take up knitting instead of riding. Thanks!

Is there water in the tranny oil?

From what you described you no longer have any drive so maybe the clutch plates don't like the water oil mix?

Like Ray mentioned , clutch , oil , and water do not mix , its like a salad dressing that uses Oil.Vinegar , if you let it sit the oil separates , well , with water , the oil won't cling to it , so it disperses , and you have clutch slippage , the oil got in via the tranny and engine vent tubes ,as well as from the exhaust and carb ...... basically you need to flush the entire system several times , buy a couple gallons of the cheapest out you can find (make sure it says MA on the label , this means it is Wet Clutch Compatible , if it does not say that , then look for another brand) ........ fill the oil to the correct amounts , remove the oil filter , and soak it in clean oil , then use air to blow it out in a rag , then reinstall the filter , (drain tranny side as well) , fill with correct amount , and try to run the bike , it should have sat long enough for electrical connections to dry , so it should run , if not , pull the tank and unplug every single plug you can find , and blow out with air , if you have some Dielectric Grease , coat each connection with it and plug them back in ...... then try to run the bike , I would also remove the plug and spray some WD-40 down the hole , then crank the engine over with the plug out , this should get rid of any moisture on the piston , or in the rings , pull the carb bowl , and flush out any water remaining in it , Drain your gas tank completely , blow out with air till dry , put a small amount of fresh gas , then drain it/dump it till you only get gas and you can not see any water droplets in the bottom

Drain and flush the oil several times , till you see no water droplets in the drain pan (there will be droplets in the pan ..... continue flushing till there are no more ..... at worst you may have to replace the clutch plates , as they may have fried and are now slipping You need to do all this to completely clear the system of water ..... Good Luck ...

Thanks Ray & Jim. I'll start flushing today and let you guys know. I always appreciate the assistance.

I forgot to add:

After you have flushed the oil several times , and ran it thru , then drained (let the engine warm up each time between oil changes/flushing) then replace the oil filter after everything comes out clear , this way you are not burning thru oil filters just to flush the system , just keep blowing it out and reinstalling it till you are clear , don't forget to clean/replace the air filter and clean out the airbox and snorkel , and pull the valve cover as well , there will most likely be moisture inside it , you might even pour oil down thru the head when the valve cover is off , so you can get every bit of moisture from the top end .....; basically buy a case of the cheap oil and flush till its used up , then put in good oil , and change it after a ride or 2 ..... then you should be good , providing the clutch survives .....

If you normally enjoy water crossings I would recommend that you not only have a breather hose pointing down but you also take one to up under the seat.
That goes for engine, carby and transmission (not sure if there is one).
A simple Y connector lets the down hose continue down and allows you to take one up.
A small filter on top hoses to stop sucking dust.
Doing that helps stop them sucking in water as the cases are cooled.

Same principal as diff breathers on you 4WD.
Never got water in my diffs in the 4WD or in my bikes.
Not that I have done a creek crossing in a long time.
That might be something to do with drought too.

We've all done it. I used a Husaberg for a raft for a couple of hundred yards. All oil plugs out, drain fuel, remove spark plug, carb bowl drain screw, turn the bike upside down resting on the handlebars and seat, and come back the next day.

It’s the mud coming out that caught me in the past.

I wouldn't say that I enjoyed the water crossing, ha! I think there was as much water in the air box than what was in my helmet. We were riding through some marshy stuff with about 5 to 6in of standing water everywhere and the creek kinda snuck up on me.

Hey guys...I thought I'd let you bask in my stupidity for a moment. So, yesterday as I was fiddling with getting the bike up on the stand I noticed a key component missing between my front and rear sprocket...the chain. I am missing my chain...and it took up until now to realize it. I just laughed. Anyway, any good recommendations on an aftermarket chain to buy? I run a 13T/53T sprockets setup presently but that could change. I do mostly trail riding. Is it better to replace the sprockets when you do a chain replacement? Any recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!

Pics of current sprocket condition: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rf3VGfGnrjxkP2bR8

Hey Fungus,
It sounds like you are pulling our chain.
Lucky it didn't bunch up at front cog and take out the case.

It must have been kind of obvious when you stuck the bike in gear and nothing happened , But that also explains why you did not see the puddle ..... maybe the next investment should be a visit to Americas Best or Lenscrafters .....

I personally like Gold chains , usually DID , and I personally prefer Non O-ring ..... to me the difference in drag is very noticeable , I just lube them with WD-40 and call it good , there is a slight difference in longevity from stretching between O-ring and Non , but it is very very minimal , I was using the Motul Off-Road lube for a while , but honestly , WD works really well , especially if you plan on doing any more Scuba rides with the bike , the WD will fend off water better and it works with the O-ring chains as well .... , I have had brand new O-rings go bad on 1 ride thru a stream (granted it was a stream full of black sand/lava rock , so it would have destroyed any chain , but we had to pull my X out with a 4x4 quad , and the chain was kinked pretty bad , I had just installed it before the ride , luckily on that ride , the bike only went as deep as the swingarm , but it killed the chain and rear wheel bearings in 1 ride , and everything was literally new right before the ride (it was a 50 mile Poker Run thru the lava rock hills in Vale ,Oregon)

Anyway , after that , I decided on Non O-ring chains , and honestly , if I shut off the engine and coast downhill , it is definitely noticeable in rolling resistance compared to a O-ring chain ........... or even when pushing my bike up on to my Hitch Hauler , you would be looking around $60-$90 for a Ok to decent one ...... After looking at your sprockets , the front is toast , the rear looks worn but not as bad as the front , so yes replace them both , I prefer Steel , they last longer , and you are not racing , so the slight extra weight is not going to make a difference on performance , and the steel hitting a rock will not snap like a Aluminum one will and at twice the cost .................

I tried and liked the Primary Drive chains (Gold , they are around $50 , and will hold up for a season easily ..... I was actually impressed for how cheap it was without stretching real bad , it did after a season , but I ride on tracks and that is harder on a chain than trail riding .... my X has the DID with 13/52 and it has been on there for 4 seasons , I always buy a 120 link , then cut it to fit the 48 tooth I have on my extra MX wheel I save the extra links and get a second Master , that way , if I need to run my 19" MX tire for the track I use the short section , then when I put my 18" Trials tire on (Kenda Equilibrium) with the 52 link , I can just add a couple links and the second master and swap back and forth whenever I want (if my R is down for maintenance , I use my X for the track , makes it nice with the button)

For Sprockets , I like JT or any of the steel ones really .... , just make sure for the front that it is made for a O-ring if you do get a O-ring chain , because it will have a offset , if you don't get the right front one , it will allow the chain to rub the case .... trust me on this , I know from experience ....

My experience tells me that if you keep an eye on your sprockets and chain tension you will end up replacing 2 front sprockets for every rear one.

The fronts do a lot of work so just wear faster.
They do see the chain 3 times as much.

I use inox on the chain as when it dries off it is still lubing and doesn't eat orings on chains.

Mind I have to agree with Jim the non oring chains can be easily cleaned and relubed. Depending what you are riding through kills a chain no matter how much it costs. There are X ring chains for less friction.

I ordered a front/rear sprocket and new chain. Just have to wait until Saturday to receive and install.

Front Sprocket: http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/part/JTF284/
Rear Sprocket: http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/part/JTR210/ (53T)
Chain: https://didchain.com/product-series/520mx/

I'll grab a can of WD40 next time I am at the hardware store...and maybe some spectacles on the way home

+1 on the spectacles