[danielhoyt]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLzDnS1SJG0

this is a video i made showing the problem and the mods i have i forgot to mention that sometimes its hard to start basically the problem is it studders at steady throttle above 5k rpms dont know why and the batter charges from the stator any help would be appreciated

[Harkon]

I would try raising the needle another notch. Sounds like you are hitting a lean spot to me. hopefully others will pipe in.

[danielhoyt]

So I bumped up the clip on the the needle 2 notches and it went away but after about a 3 hour ride it started cutting out at steady throttle around 4k and 8k Rpms just seemed like a different problem cuts out like it dies for a milisecond but will repeatedly cut in and out at WOT I don't know where to even start

[JimDirt]

What is your current jetting and what is your elevation ??

[danielhoyt]

Sea level to 3000 I haven't been higher than sea level since it started 165 main 55 leak and needle in 3rd position I believe fuel screw 2 1/4 turns out might be more i can't remember and I'm not near my bike at the moment

[JimDirt]

Thats pretty close though i would personally have the needle on the 4th position from the top , but otherwise your jetting is about right

BUT

I just now got done watching your video , and your revving the bike on the stand , it will sputter while on the stand , what your concerned with is if it does that while riding , which is when its under a load , if it does it then , i would worry , on the stand , not so much

Also what is your starting procedure , hot and cold

Cold:
1) Pull the choke
2) twist the throttle 4-6 times

3) Hit Start Button

4) after about 30 seconds , take off the choke , the bike should idle on its own , depending on how cold it is outside

HOT:
1) , start the bike with the starter , if it wont start right up then pull the Hot Start Lever , and hit the Starter Button , it should start then , if it does not , then check the De-compressor Gap (especially if it starts right up when using the Kick Start)

[danielhoyt]

It doesn't do what it did in the video anymore I solved that with the needle clip being moved up and it did do the same thing under load just didn't have a way to video me riding it what it does now is cuts out randomly at a fairly steady throttle or when I hold it wide open ill try and see if I can figure out a video with my gopro to show you guys the new issue but if I'm rolling on the throttle it doesn't cut only when it's held in place

The hard starts went away when I adjusted the needle clip


But my usual start up routine is hit the button then let warm up until the cylinder is pretty warm to the touch barely have to use the choke have never twisted the throttle before start up unless I recently emptied the carb

And hot just a quick touch and fires off haven't used the hot start since I got the bike

[JimDirt]

PM leardriver , he is the resident carb guru , if anyone can figure out why its doing that , he can !

[danielhoyt]

I'm still fairly new to the forums I don't know how to pm people

[Leardriver]

Like Jim says, what a bike does on the stand really has no bearing on how it will perform on the dirt.
It is hard to diagnose drivability issues over the internet. Your jetting is close enough to run great.
These bikes sputter and pop and gurgle a little even when they are perfectly tuned. I suspect a little clog at the top of the pilot jet or fuel screw passage is making you a little lean at trailing throttle (coasting)

I would be tempted to take out the pilot and fuel screw, leaving the carb on the bike, but laying it down on its right side to let gravity help you not drop little parts, and gently probe the top of those passages with a sharp pointy probe like a dental pick, and blow compressed air up there. I know that sounds pornographic.
Air should be blasting out into the carb bell from the fuel screw hole. Sometimes the slightest bit of sediment or crust will accumulate up there and cause your symptoms.

[danielhoyt]

I will try that tomorrow but I'm concerned it could be something else because it ran perfectly fine before the cam locked up in the holder dew to my own dumba** fault let the oil change go for way to long and didn't check the level at all when I emptied it had less than half a quart felt pretty dumb after that one could the 450r cam be throwing it off or something? Has anyone done the CCC mods?

[JimDirt]

I did the Honda Tech Bulletin mods , except i used a HotCams Stage 1 instead of the R cam , and i used a R muffler instead of doing the stock X muffler mod , and i only cut the top from the airbox , i did not cut the sides

Now when the cam went , what did you replace or not replace ??

[danielhoyt]

I replaced the holder buckets and cam I cut the sides of the air box an removed the snorkel didn't cut the top I did the pink wire mod uh main jet stayed the same I did put a 55 leak in though and it has a after market exhaust full system yoshimura titanium used to be the carbon fiber but it blew apart so it's the aluminum sleeve now

[danielhoyt]

And I did a top end and cam chain

[JimDirt]

You said your on the 3rd clip right ?? , try the 4th and see if its better

Again leardriver is the carb guru here , i have learned more from him than about anyone on carbs , but i am far from a carb expert

But i am still thinking its a carb issue , if you replaced everything mentioned , the bike should run good , so here is the thing , the bike needs Fuel , Air , and Spark to run , so the issue is within those 3 things , we know your getting spark , unless the ignition is breaking down under load , then your left with Air and Fuel

If you do not have a vacuum leak or a muffler leak , then your left with Fuel , so we are back to something in the carb , most likely a coincidence with the cam issue , , as sometimes if the bike sits all sorts of things can get clogged up in the carb , most of the orifices are pretty small , so it does not take much to make a big issue out of something really small