[Yak A Tech]

Hi guys! I have recently acquired a 2006 CRF450x and I gotta say I am hooked! Spent the last couple days riding it. Only put about 30 miles of mixed trails and dirt road.

A few questions as a first time 4 stroke owner. My KDX200 likes to start up with little twist of the throttle, the 450x does not. Anyone have tips on starting the bike hot (after stalling it in a tight steep trail)? I just ask because I struggle with this and tend to kill my battery before I get it started back up. I have a cheap wally world battery .

I also feel like the bike does good in tight trails going up and down steep hills, but I have gotten in to some real ruts with big loose rocks and it seems like the bike wants to stall out to easily in 1st. I have crawled around in it, but struggle when I get to the deep ruts with loose rocks. It is probably just my inexperience but thought I would I ask. I still scared to rev real high in this stuff on the 4 stroke because it feels like it wants to run off and leave me if I do.

The bike, performance wise, only has an aftermarket slip on and is basically new. Still has new looking tires on it with date code indicating they were made in 2005.

Harder for me to tell when I am going to stall to than my 2 smoker lol the sounds of a 4 stroke are too different for me.

[Back2-2]

Hello and welcome to the CRF family. You found the right site for chatting and learning about the bad boy 450.

If you get stuck or drop the bike - do not turn the throttle at all. If it does not fire up pull the hot start lever [ just above the clutch lever] that will lean the fuel/air mix out to ease starting.

The difference in riding these 4 stroke is that rpm's are not required. If you get in really tight stuff go to "tracker mode' and chug through it. The 450XI has really good gearing in stoke form where you can't hardly kill them at super low rpm's.
Use the clutch and light throttle and you can get through most situations.
The more you rev it it loose rocks the worse it gets.

I have the same '06 450X they are great bikes.

Hope that helps a little,

[JimDirt]

Welcome to the site !!

Everything Back2-2 says is spot on , the 06 is a great bike (its what i have and have had it since new) , my suggestion is to make sure its jetted properly for your elevation (is the top of the airbox cut ??) , ***remove the seat , if the airbox has a snorkel, then its not cut***

I personally like 13/52 gearing for just about everything except fast desert riding (stock is 13/51) , if jetted correctly , the bike should lug and tractor thru just about anything you can throw at it , if it has a aftermarket muffler , then it needs to breath , it needs more fuel and more air

What is your elevation (where you ride the most) ??

Have you checked the jetting to see what is in it ??

Are you running FRESH PREMIUM ?? (this is mandatory) these bikes run like crap on Mid-grade , and i doubt it will even run on Regular

Do you have a Owners Manual ?? if not get one , or a Factory Honda Service Manual **Ken sells them here** , everything for tuning and troubleshooting as well as specs will be in there , its a must if your going to work on it yourself

This is a basic jetting guide for your bike

Pilot: #45

Main Jet:
Sea level....165
2000 ft.......162
4000 ft.......160
6000 ft.......158
8000 ft.......155

[Yak A Tech]

I am putting highest grade gas at whatever gas station I stop at (93 or 95).

The air box is not opened, I don't think I'll cut it completely, but drilling holes in it like I did with my kdx200 sounds good lol I have not checked the Jets yet. Will have to do that this week, when I change oil and prep the air filter.

I think it has stock gearing, will have to check.

I bought the cyclepedia manual for it. I have had good luck with that site.

I'm in oxford, AL so elevation varies from at least 600 ft to possibly 2000 I believe, get to ride the "foothills" of the Appalachian Mountains. I hope to get out to highland park one day before it gets warm.

How many miles do you guys normally go before checking your valve clearances? Any tips on your service intervals compared to what honda "suggest"?

[JimDirt]

Valves:

With STOCK intake valves ,you need to check frequently , like every 10 or so rides , with Stainless intakes (what i use in both my bikes and what most end up going to as soon as the intakes zero out) , i check mine once a year , usually at the end of the riding season , my Stainless intakes have been in my 450X since 06 and have not changed since install , my 450R just got them this last spring , and i have had that bike since 08

Mileage:

My average ride in the woods is 50 to 80 miles of tight single track , and oddly enough its about the same mileage in the desert because i tend to look for the tight single track there as well (yes there is plenty of tight single track in the desert if you look for it) , this is riding for the day , so riding both days on a weekend is 100 - 150+ miles easily with my 450X , on my 450R i use that as the "loner" trail bike when i am riding my 450X , so it gets ridden as much or more than my X at times , and I ride the 450R on the MX track every weekend that i don't have anyone to trail ride with or when i don't feel like trail riding by myself

Maintenance:

I do "normal" items , before each ride , like tire pressure , cleanliness, checking oil levels , cables , air filter ..
Unfortunately , we have winter here so right now , there is snow most everywhere , and where its not , its clay mud , which is just like riding on ice and no fun , so since Mid November no riding for me till February , so now is when i do my suspension work (oil, re-valving , etc)and things that i neglected working on during the year , like packing bearings , checking valves , tires , etc.

[MattBennett23]

I have a 250X and cant speak to the 450X specifically, but I believe a lot of the info is the same.

I never use throttle to start the bike. I turn the choke on, the gas on, pull in the clutch, and hit the magic button. Let it run for 30 seconds to a minute and turn the choke off. It usually idles on its own at that time, but can be a little cold blooded. Worst case use a little throttle to keep it running until I get moving. As soon as I ride 100 yards its always perfect and idles beautifully.

When hot I have never had an issue starting the bike ever. Never needed the hot start lever either. Pull in the clutch and hit the magic button and its good to go. Worst case find neutral first, but I have never really needed to do that. I kick started the bike once just to make sure it did actually work.... Love the button! Still on the stock battery. We keep it on a trickle charger when not in use for long periods of time. I bought the bike new in 2011 and have never had a battery issue at all. I have the trail tech Striker computer which is nice, because it has a voltage meter that tells me the batteries voltage, which is nice for monitoring things. If you have a cheap battery that fails, I would get either another stocker or spend more for a nice light shorai battery. It shouldnt run your battery out unless you have the bike flooded or some other reason it wont start on its own.

As far as hills, I have never really had a problem with them. BUT, and this is a big but, the first thing I did with my bike was buy a Rekluse auto clutch. It literally is the best thing since sliced bread. I have to really work to make my bike stall, it stays running no matter how tight it is or how hilly with no clutch work at all on my part. Also if you crash your bike stays running without having to jump up and grab the clutch lever before making sure you are still in one piece... My uncle has a ktm and gets stuck going up hills losing traction and stalling and I can either ride around him if there is room, or can come to a dead stop mid hill and restart back up the hill without ever touching the clutch or stalling. You just make sure you are in the right gear and twist the throttle, no clutch work at all on your part, the Rekluse does it for you. It really is pretty boss... HIGHLY recommend picking one up... Just keep your momentum and once you lose that just chug it up the rest of the way. The Rekluse makes it simple.

As far as jetting and stuff, I still have the stock exhaust. Opened the airbox up, and installed a JD jetting kit. Also highly recommend the JD Jetting kit. I never ran it with stock jetting, so I cant speak to the difference, but the JD kit made it easy to know exactly what to use with the mods I did do (opening the airbox) and has never given me a problem at all. I have read so many great review on it that I just got one before I ever rode with stock jetting. Opened the box and did what the kit said and it was perfect. The 250X has often seen troubles with a bog, but with this kit I never saw a hint of it. Runs great. I would recommend opening the airbox completely. Unless you are regularly dropping your bike during river crossings, its the way to go. Extra air does a ton for these bikes, especially if you have an aftermarket exhaust that flows better than stock.

[Yak A Tech]

Thanks guys!

I plan on opening the air box and getting the JD kit, I have been reading a lot about this and believe it will greatly help my 1st gear bog/stalling. I also think opening the air box will help starting it hot.

I will get a nice battery one day, but for now the cheapo ($30 battery) will have to do. I like the idea of the auto-clutch, one of the reasons I like riding a bike though is because it is a challenge and I like challenges! (even if my physique doesn't suggest I like physical challenges )

I believe it is time for me to grease the bearings too. I have never greased bearings that didn't have a grease fitting so is there anything special too it? Or just rub 'er down? Any specific grease you guys like for off-roading? Maybe something not too tacky for dirt to be attracted to like glue.

This may sound stupid but to me it doesn't if I can save a few hundred when the time comes. When replacing the intake valves, can I throw new SS valves in to the current head, or would I need to send the head and valves in to a machine shop to properly seat them? I don't know anything about replacing valves as I have only read and never done, so keep that in mind.

[MattBennett23]

I will leave the valve question to someone else, as luckily I have not a valve issue at all.

Reference the Rekluse, trust me, it is still a challenge. There are many aspects to riding and the clutch is only one. You still got to ride the bike lol. You still shift, you still brake, everything else, you just dont have to use the clutch. A lot of guys dont clutch to shift anyways.

The big difference I find is the "oh $hit" moment. When you come to a quick stop and dont grab the clutch saying OS, the bike keeps running. When you smack a tree and fly 10 ft from you bike yelling OS, the bike keeps running. When you are halfway up a hill and would be feathering the clutch going OS, the rekluse does it for you. When you find yourself in the wrong gear for the situation and need to find some power, it works the clutch for you.

There is plenty of other stuff going on, and it is still very challenging. Is it easier? Yes, but so is electric start. You dont kickstart your bike because its more of a challenge do you?

You get all the challenge of riding and fun of riding without having to worry about modulating the clutch. You still can if you want. You can use your clutch lever just like normal if you want, then you have a big expensive anti stall device, lol...

All I know is 90% of the reviews I read before I got a Rekluse, the bottom line was they would never own another bike without them. 90% of the criticism was from people who had never used one. So I went out on a limb and bought one. My verdict, I doubt I will ever buy another bike without one. I rode my uncles KTM cause he wanted to check out my bike (I have done several mods, the clutch, lowered suspension etc). He didnt want to give it back.

When I first put it in I wanted to test it. So I ran thru the gears on a paved road up to fifth gear. Braked and came to stop with it still in fifth gear. Never touched the clutch lever. Bike was in 5th idling like it was in neutral. I rolled on the throttle never touching the clutch lever and took off from a dead stop in 5th gear as smoothly as if I was in 2nd gear using the clutch. I'm sure this was not good for the clutch, but I was sold, lol...

P.S. This isnt a Rekluse sales pitch, I get nothing from them, lol. Just a product I have used and believe in, and truly feel everyone should get and could benefit from.

[MattBennett23]

Ending Rekluse commercial now...

[JimDirt]

In reference to the valves , yes you should have a shop check and cut the seats (give them the head and the valves) , make sure when switching to Stainless , that you get a "kit" that has matching valve springs , as the heavier Stainless , require heavier springs , its not 100% mandatory , but its highly recommended (i just swapped the Intake Valves only on my 06 450X , but i swapped Intakes AND Springs on my 450R)

Have a reputable shop do it , one that is familiar with modern 4 strokes and has a EXCELLENT reputation for doing the work on modern 4 strokes , do not take it to a machine shop that only does car engines , and has not done 4 strokes or does not come highly recommended for doing motorcycle valves , they wont have the tools to cut the seats properly or the experience to do it right

Ken (the owner here) can do it all and work with your budget as much as possible , and does excellent work and has excellent customer service and all the parts including complete modded heads or custom machine work on your head , or you can send him the head and cam assembly and he can do everything including bench shimming the valves so all you have to do is take your refurbished head out of the box and bolt it together and ride(PM him and go over your needs and budget and he will work with you as best he can)

(Ending crfsonly Commercial now)

[Yak A Tech]

Lol I appreciate the info. I understand what you mean about the clutch. I may get one, one day. I was wondering about the shifting with no clutch, as I have done this by accident. I don't think I need the valves touched right now but whenever I do I will be sure to contact Ken first. This bike would probably already be modded out (I like bells and whistles) if I wasn't buying a house right now. I can't wait to open he air box and re-jet though.

Any tips or links on setting the suspension for the 450x? I've never set up suspension or rode a bike with a suspension set for me but I bet it would help me from death gripping the thing in rocky trails (along with a steering stabilizer that I will never buy).

How much did it cost to lower your bike? This would help me a great deal if it was maybe an inch lower possibly two. I don't really want to cut the seat though.

[JimDirt]

I lowered mine with the Kouba Link 4 (1.75" drop)

I love it , with that link you need to RAISE the forks in the clamps to about 6mm from flush with the fork tube , your sag will end up being about 80mm instead of 100mm , because of the length difference of the link , as far as suspension itself , the first thing is setting it for your weight , go here and figure out your spring rate needed for your weight , it will tell you what the stock rate is and what they recommend for your weight http://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx

Having the proper springs for your weight will make the bike softer (even if you have to install stiffer springs) , as far as settings go , i usually keep the Rebound clickers close to stock setting , but go softer on the compression (counter clockwise) like 14+ clicks from 0 (each click is 1/4 turn) , this will plush it up quite a bit

Basically the more you soften the compression (counter clockwise) the softer the bike will feel , but the springs have to be correct for it to really work properly , you can also ADD oil to the forks , adding oil will actually soften the ride , try 10cc's in each leg first , then go from there

If you want it plusher then what you can get with changing what i mentioned , you will need to re-valve it and change Pressure Springs (the small spring inside the cartridge)

I do my own suspension work , and re-valved my bikes myself , , i can ride thru a rock garden without even thinking about it , its not much different than riding a normal trail

I set mine up basically like a Endurocross bike , its sprung to keep the bike up in the stroke , but the valving is really soft , you basically just ride the bike over stuff and don't even worry about it , its great , the rougher the trail , the more fun i have !

I also cut my seat , click on my 2006 Honda CRF 450X under my Avatar , it will take you to my Garage so you can see what it looks like with a link and a cut seat

[MattBennett23]

Ok this could get long... Sorry...

Love the clutch. Best $300 I ever spent on dirt biking! I never really used the clutch much to shift before I got it while riding. Just on the road etc. From what I understand you dont really need to clutch and it isnt that hard on the transmission or anything. Just let off the throttle and shift. Has always worked fine for me. I heard that the pros very rarely use the clutch to shift, but who knows for sure.

Lowering the bike was the 2nd best thing I ever did for riding a dirt bike. I am only 5'6" with a 27" inseam... You can blame my parents for that. I have never really felt comfortable on a dirt bike because they are all made for guys who are 5'10 and 170 lbs. I didnt want to cheap out. When I bought my bike I was coming off a 1998 XR250R. I had been riding this for a long time and saving money. I wanted to get my dream bike set up exactly how I wanted. I picked up my 2009 crf250x brand new in 2011 and drove it from the dealer to a suspension shop here in Michigan. I had heard excellent reviews on them, and I wanted a local company who knows the local conditions. I paid $1000 total. Sounds pricey, I know. For that, I bought a Sicass racing dual sport kit to make it street legal, which they installed, got proper springs for my weight, and had the suspension lowered 2" front and rear, and had the suspension revalved and set up for local conditions. This was done in the suspension. I believe just the suspension work with springs, revalve, and lowering was about $600. They even set my sag for me when I picked it up. I had read about lowering links but did not want to go that route, as it can effect the handling and I was gonna be messing with suspension springs anyways. BEST DECISION EVER!! I can touch the ground now, which is nice when needed on the trail, and feel so much more comfortable on this bike than any other bike I have ever ridden. Plus its a lot easier to kick a leg over and got rid of that stinkbug style Honda likes with the rear higher than the front. Its great lower center of gravity, suspension works beautifully for what I ride, and I was instantly comfortable on it. Never even had to adjust the clickers. I could probably play with it, but I dont know what I am doing with suspension setup, and it has been leaps and bounds better than any bike I have ever ridden. The plan was to add a Durelle Racing gel seat which lowers it a little more, but I found I didnt need it after the suspension work. Add in the extra power over my XR and the button and I am one happy camper! (If you couldnt tell). The only downside is that if you have the suspension lowered, you lose a little bit of ground clearance. I have never noticed this on the trail at all though.

My bike is now set up exactly how I wanted. The only thing I would ever do to it, if money was no option, was put a Q4 exhaust on it for a better sound. Dont need the extra power, the bike just doesnt have the grunt sound I like. Although this is nice sometimes too. I've been sound checked before and had them tell me to start my bike when it was already running....

Before I ever even rode it, I did my homework and knew exactly what I wanted to do with it. Like I said I got the suspension redone immediately. After I brought it home, I changed out the bars for a Pro Taper Contour Bar, added the Rekluse, a GPR V4 stabilizer, opened the airbox, added a JD Jetting kit, a Trail Tech Striker computer, Highway Dirtbikes handguards, STR Speed Bleed buttons on the forks, Flatland Racing Radiator Guards, Works Connection HD Skid Plate, Tuggers front and rear, a Garmin GPS, and removed the AIS smog equipment. This was all before I rode it. Only thing I regret at all is the handguards. They are nice, and offer amazing protection, but are a pain in the butt to install. Doing it again, I would try the Cycra Pro Bend with the Center Reach Mount. These look great and have great reviews.

Long story short, I am in love with my bike! It is exactly what I wanted and set up perfectly for me. I have gone to a bunch of group rides and even just camping around trails. Its become a running joke to see how long it takes after we setup before people come and check out my bike and ask questions. It gets complimented a LOT! It sits right next to my uncles KTM 250 and he gets jealous of all the attention my bike gets. Almost everyone who looks at it loves the lowering on it and says they have always wanted to do that. Plus she is just dang pretty, lol... There are pics in the garage if you click on the bike listed under my user name on this post if you want to check it out at all....

Ok my neck is starting to hurt from trying to self pleasure myself now, lol... Anyways, if you have any more question feel free to ask. Always fun to talk mods lol...

[Yak A Tech]

WOW, wish I had the money to pimp my bike . I am about to change the oil and check the jet sizes in it and happen to notice where the smog stuff is suppose to come out of the head, there is nothing there. It appears to be a 450R head.. Does this change anything? When I go to check the valve clearances, does this change anything? Will I be able to tell what cam I have in it (part numbers)? Should I be looking at anything else to see if something else is different? I can't for the life of me understand why this head would be there? It has tires that look really good with date codes from 05, I mean it had to be for a hop-up right? Where is the other side of the smog stuff suppose to be going so I can check and make sure everything is done right?

[Back2-2]

Not all the 450X models have the smog stuff. Mine is a
non-CA model and it has just a casting area where the smog fitting would have gone. My old riding buddy that up and left me for another state had a CA model that the casting had the fitting and piping until he put a block off kit on it.

I still miss that sorry bastard and his slow bike !