[timmy2648]

I have a 2011 crf250r I went to move it and I grabbed the clutch lever and the clutch cable snapped I put a new cable in but when I adjust it all the way out it still stalls as soon as it goes in gear and if you get it to not stall and start moving it will randomly disengage the clutch and just rev up I pulled the clutch cover off to check the baskets I have had the bike for 2 years and I haven't ridden it much because in that time it blew up twice and the bottom end the person I bought it from rebuilt it and then when the top end went I rebuilt it and had a machine shop go through the head before I put parts in to get the valve seats right because the pin that holds the valve to the spring broke and caused one of the exhaust valves to get bent by getting smacked from the piston I decided to check the clutch baskets and clutch plates and they were done so I just finished putting in both baskets pressure plate and springs but I'm having the same problem where the clutch won't disengage and the bike still stalls as soon as its put in gear the adjustment is all the way out and there is a little play before it starts to pull on the clutch.

anybody know what It could be and what I should be looking for I haven't had any problems with it stalling in gear until the cable snapped

[Aussiecrf230]

Have you used a OEM clutch cable or an after market one?
Sometimes they are slightly too long and you run out of adjustment.
Does the clutch work normally with engine off - can you push the bike?
When you had the clutch cover off did the actuator arm look ok as in not worn or damaged?
Is the pushrod installed?

[timmy2648]

Have you used a OEM clutch cable or an after market one?
Sometimes they are slightly too long and you run out of adjustment.
Does the clutch work normally with engine off - can you push the bike?
When you had the clutch cover off did the actuator arm look ok as in not worn or damaged?
Is the pushrod installed?

it is a oem cable and it doesn't work with the bike off it will still be engaged when I have the lever pulled and the pushrod is in but I'm not sure about the actuator arm I didn't pull it out when I did the clutch I just took the baskets out and changed the bearing and the thrust washer along with the new baskets and clutch

[Aussiecrf230]

Well if arm is worn or bent it can't move the pushrod sufficiently to disengage.
If that appears OK then the height of the clutch stack maybe slightly lower.

Try disconnecting cable and see how much free travel the arm has before hit pushrod. The clearance is probably only 10 or 20 thou at the pushrod.

If it takes up most of travel before hitting pushrod then either the arm is bent or there is something wrong inside.

[timmy2648]

Well if arm is worn or bent it can't move the pushrod sufficiently to disengage.
If that appears OK then the height of the clutch stack maybe slightly lower.

Try disconnecting cable and see how much free travel the arm has before hit pushrod. The clearance is probably only 10 or 20 thou at the pushrod.

If it takes up most of travel before hitting pushrod then either the arm is bent or there is something wrong inside.

i can feel some play in the actuator arm when i took the cable off i can email you some pictures of the arm along with the pushrod and thrust washer i cant add them for some reason

[Aussiecrf230]

Have a look at how Jim says to post a picture. The more eyes on it the better.

https://www.crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopi ... re#p347130

[timmy2648]

thank you and this is the pictures of the three parts

[Aussiecrf230]

How are the ends of the lifter rod?

The only worn part I can see is lifter arm, on the bearing surfaces and where it pushes the rod.

With the arm in the case how much slop does it have in the bearings?

[timmy2648]

How are the ends of the lifter rod?

The only worn part I can see is lifter arm, on the bearing surfaces and where it pushes the rod.

With the arm in the case how much slop does it have in the bearings?

I’m not sure which bearings you are referring to but the needle bearing that the clutch baskets are on I replaced with the baskets and the bearing on the clutch lifter I did not replace

[Aussiecrf230]

Talking about the lifter arm. Is it galled like it looks in the photo?
How worn is is where the pushrod sits?

I think It was around 2011 that judder springs were installed in the pack.
I believe they could be replaced by additional plates.

I wonder if the stack is to high due to mismatch of parts and can't disengage.
Do you know which part numbers went into the clutch rebuild. Was it factory baskets etc.

[Aussiecrf230]

Just checked the clutch kits are different part number.

https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.co ... )%20CLUTCH

Did the clutch ever work properly?

[timmy2648]

Talking about the lifter arm. Is it galled like it looks in the photo?
How worn is is where the pushrod sits?

I think It was around 2011 that judder springs were installed in the pack.
I believe they could be replaced by additional plates.

I wonder if the stack is to high due to mismatch of parts and can't disengage.
Do you know which part numbers went into the clutch rebuild. Was it factory baskets etc.

I’m not sure of the part numbers but I got oem baskets and then a Hinson clutch replacement that was for the year and model I had ordered them from a dealership and put them in and the clutch worked normally how it always had until the cable snapped once the cable snapped it just never worked after that the bike was off when it snapped and in neutral so im not sure what would of caused other things to break and sorry about not responding in awhile I was out of the country and didn’t have service where I was

[Aussiecrf230]

Not a problem, I don't get to look every day either.

So if it was working after the clutch replacement and you have only had the problem since replacing the cable it has to be and adjustment issue.
Is there a coarse adjustment at the clutch end?
Maybe the fine adjustment at handle bar is just running out.

You did receive the correct cable for your year - only other thing I can think of.

[timmy2648]

Not a problem, I don't get to look every day either.

So if it was working after the clutch replacement and you have only had the problem since replacing the cable it has to be and adjustment issue.
Is there a coarse adjustment at the clutch end?
Maybe the fine adjustment at handle bar is just running out.

You did receive the correct cable for your year - only other thing I can think of.

the adjustment at the clutch lever is maxed out but it doesnt have enough adjustment to dissengage the clutch but the old clutch and baskets were pretty bad so i was thinking i probably need the pushrod, actuator arm, and thrust washer

[Aussiecrf230]

Well all those parts are wear items and you can compare to new parts.

If the baskets were really bad an wobbled they can get wear on the thrust washer.

Check the fit of the arm in the alloy housing to make sure you are not losing clutch travel there as well.