[vhonda28]

I just checked my valves and my exhaust valves are within spec but my intake are off. The right side is at .004 and the left side is at .002 when spec should be .006. Should i redo the valves and springs? What is the best route for me. I am new to 4 strokes, I was a 2 stroke guy but got convinced.

[JimDirt]

You can adjust them a few times , they are not completely shot , but they are on their way , once they start closing its only a matter of time , you can adjust and get the rest of the riding season out of them and then tear it down over the winter and get the valves done (they do them here ,contact Ken the owner and he can hook you up with everything you need to have a fresh valve job)

The cost of what needs to be done is dependent on your specific needs and budget , anywhere from a couple hundred to several hundred dollars , you can even just replace the head with a ready to run setup customized to your needs , it just depends on what your looking for and can afford

What i would personally do (the same thing i am doing with one of my bikes this winter) is adjust it , and get thru the season as they have not completely zeroed out yet so you have a little life left in them , then when you have down time over winter , you can get it done , this will also give you some time to save up for it so your not trying to squeak by with limited funds of a unexpected repair right now

Springs will be dependent on what type of valves you get , either Titanium or Stainless Intakes , and what type of riding you do , a trail rider CAN get away with just valves and no springs (depending on brand of valves) a racer or aggressive rider needs to replace everything involved in matched sets of valves and springs ,

[vhonda28]

All or most of my riding is in open desert and trails. Im not that aggressive with it just out to have fun and go out the next weekend

[JimDirt]

When you do change them i would go with the Stainless then , less maintenance and less long term issues , mine have not gone out of spec in 7 years of trail riding (i am using the OEM springs and have not had ANY issues) , to me that says a lot !

Note:

If you do rev the motor out in any gear it is best to add the matching springs (heavier) with Stainless , it will prevent valve float due to the heavier valve , which COULD cause the valve to hit the piston , again i have had no issues , but some brand valves recommend you use the matching springs as a prevention from that ever happening

I put Ferrea 1mm larger (same size as the TRX450 ATV) in my X which meant the seats had to be cut larger , someone that has done this before should do that , go to someone reputable with cutting Dirtbike valve seats , do not let just anyone do it , do some research before jumping blindly into this

I again would recommend talking to Ken , he wont BS you , and will do only what you need unless you want extra, and then he can guide you in the right direction and give you additional options

[crfsonly]

Kibblewhite stainless valves with our CNC valve seat and port bowl work would provide you with very stable and durable valves. for your type of riding requirements this is the recommended set up.

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/3974

if i can answer any questions just let me know.

ken