float pin stuck
  • Triple900
    Posts: 3
    Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:30 pm

    float pin stuck

    by Triple900 » Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:36 pm

    this is the worst carb I have ever seen . Looks like molassas. Anyway I want to take off the floats and make sure the seat for the float valve is clean and the pin does not easily come out. Any suggestions? Plus I have cleaned out the tank using new gas but the reserve part of the petcock is partially clogged . I soaked it withcarb cleaner and used reverse air pressure but it still is only a partial flow when the dial is at halfway between the off and reserve mark. I tried to take it off of the tank but the bolts are in really tight and i am concerned that the nuts in the tank will spin. any ideas on the petcock?
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    crfsonly
    Owner
    Posts: 9651
    Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 3:45 pm

    Re: float pin stuck

    by crfsonly » Thu Aug 01, 2013 2:43 pm

    float is not difficult to remove or replace. make sure you take a good look at the float set valve linkage so you get that put back together correctly. you'll need to set the height or at least verify it is correct.

    carb cleaner will ruin all of the rubber seals in the carb. the floating valve plate seal especially. replace it.

    you will need to remove the tank at some point so might as well deal with it now. use some penetrating oil on the threads and let it sit over night. then do your best to break them free without spinning in the plastic tank.

    disassemble the petcock and take a look. clean and reassemble.
    OEM Parts for Honda - Yamaha - Suzuki - Kawasaki: http://yeltrik.com
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  • Aussiecrf230
    Posts: 1962
    Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:11 pm

    by Aussiecrf230 » Fri Aug 02, 2013 1:54 am

    Ken,
    Didn't know there was a floating valve plate seal in a 80F/100F carby. Might be hard to order if that is the case.

    Keep cleaning it out or it will never run properly.
    Someone has put 2 stroke oil in the tank. It goes a horrible bitty treacle mix as it ages.
    Ray
    Australia

    CRF230F 2004
    C30F Power Up needle
    Mains 132
    Idle 45
    2 turns out
    Baffle out, Screens In

    It starts,it runs,it gets to where all CRFs can get to without the valve or valve plate dramas
  • Triple900
    Posts: 3
    Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:30 pm

    by Triple900 » Fri Aug 02, 2013 5:14 am

    I have put penetrating oil on the float pin and using a punch I still can't push it out with just hand pressure. It looks like if I try to use more force i could break the casting. so I'll keep soaking it .. going to put it in the freezer and perhaps that will help break it loose. If i can't get the float pin off by hand then I 'll just have to use force and if it breaks get a used one from ebay. I will replace the float needle.

    Same with the tank. the petcock has rivets so I can't take apart like on my Honda 250. I'll soak the bolts and if it spins then I'll get a tank from ebay. While I get some flow from the reserve now I can't take a chance on being out in the woods and no reserve.
  • Aussiecrf230
    Posts: 1962
    Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:11 pm

    by Aussiecrf230 » Sat Aug 03, 2013 6:41 am

    Does the float pin appear corroded in or just really tight. Boiling water on the alloy may help.
    Ray
    Australia

    CRF230F 2004
    C30F Power Up needle
    Mains 132
    Idle 45
    2 turns out
    Baffle out, Screens In

    It starts,it runs,it gets to where all CRFs can get to without the valve or valve plate dramas
  • Triple900
    Posts: 3
    Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:30 pm

    by Triple900 » Sun Aug 04, 2013 4:22 pm

    Freezing didn't help so I finally put a socket under one of the support pins and gave the pin a sharp hit with a hammer and the pin came put. it looks like a little corrosion. the float need to come out because there was dirt in the seat area of the float pin.. going to soak the bolts for the petcock and try to remove them again. I found that using PB Blaster penetrating oil did a much better job of cleaning the carb. It soaks better than carb cleaner which flashes very quickly and it doesn't affect plastic and rubber parts. could not get the pilot jet clean after soaking and trying to run a fine wire through so I am buying a new one
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    crfsonly
    Owner
    Posts: 9651
    Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 3:45 pm

    by crfsonly » Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:42 am

    Aussiecrf230 wrote:Ken,
    Didn't know there was a floating valve plate seal in a 80F/100F carby. Might be hard to order if that is the case.

    Keep cleaning it out or it will never run properly.
    Someone has put 2 stroke oil in the tank. It goes a horrible bitty treacle mix as it ages.


    good reminder to always look at what forum you are posting in. ;)
    OEM Parts for Honda - Yamaha - Suzuki - Kawasaki: http://yeltrik.com
    _________________
    CRF Parts and Accessories: http://crfsonly.com
  • Aussiecrf230
    Posts: 1962
    Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:11 pm

    by Aussiecrf230 » Tue Aug 06, 2013 4:07 am

    Ken,
    I know what it is like when you are rushed for time. I am sure I ahve posted late at night and it made no sense next day.

    Triple900,
    Glad to here you had a win, good idea to replace idle jet if it is clogged badly and won't clean up.
    Ray
    Australia

    CRF230F 2004
    C30F Power Up needle
    Mains 132
    Idle 45
    2 turns out
    Baffle out, Screens In

    It starts,it runs,it gets to where all CRFs can get to without the valve or valve plate dramas

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