04 CRF150 Mods
  • Tman
    Posts:4
    Joined:Mon Dec 19, 2005 1:19 pm
    04 CRF150 Mods

    by Tman » Mon Dec 19, 2005 1:48 pm

    I JUST got this bike to trail ride with my son. It only had one tank of gas run through it and was at the right price. I am 6 feet and weigh about 175lbs. Here are the mods (in order) that I am contemplating--any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Given that explanation, no comments that it is too small please. I just sold an 02 DR650 to supplement the purchase of this bike and one for my kid...
    1. Stiffer rear shock and maybe fork springs
    2. New air filter-take out snorkel-
    2a. When do I need to rejet it? Do I need to reject Only if I take out the snorkel And the noise restrictor in the exhaust. I do not have much interest in creating more noise (see item 3) because I will be using it in a national forest. I do not live at elevation. I have read the article from Dirt Bike on rejetting the 230...Is it EXACTLY the same?
    3. New exhaust (which is best)
    4. Sidewinder sprocket
    5. new electronic box (rev limiter)
    6. money is gone...diminishing returns right?

    I have looked at many of the posts, and I am just trying to put all of the information that I have learned in one place.
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    oldtimer
    Posts:149
    Joined:Fri Sep 30, 2005 6:01 pm

    by oldtimer » Mon Dec 19, 2005 2:36 pm

    Welcome Tman. Your on the right track.

    You need to re-jet when you increase the airflow into the bike. More air will lean out the carb. You get more air by pulling the snorkel under the seat creating a larger passageway for the air and adding a higher flow air filter to allow that new volume of air to get into the carb quicker and cleaner.
    You re-jet to compensate for this buy giving it more fuel with bigger jets (pilot, main etc.) The more air you take in the more exhaust you need to remove. This is why most remove or drill out the baffle. An aftermarket pipe will accomplish the same thing. And add a little boost of power as well.

    The procedure of jetting the 150 is the exact same as the 230 just different jet sizes.

    I don’t know what pipe is best. I’m not a huge fan of aftermarket exhaust. Not to say I would never get one if I had the funds available it’s just a case of bang for the buck.

    Hope this helps.
    06 CRF230, BBR F&R Springs, BBR Triple Clamp and Link,BBR skidplate and cam cover, RSW fork brace, Pro Taper Fat bars, Ready Filters, Power up Kit, Airbox Mods and Trail Tech.
    06 CRF80
    04 CRF70
    88 CR250
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    High Flyer
    Posts:118
    Joined:Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:00 am

    by High Flyer » Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:08 am

    as for an exhaust i would go for a Big Gun RACE exhaust i have heard good re-views on that exhaust.
    2004 CRF150
    -Pro-Taper SE CR low bend
    -Michilen MS2's
    -RK MXZ3 Chain
    -Pro Taper gray waffel grips
    -Air Box cover removed
    -JT 48T Rear Sprocket
  • Tman
    Posts:4
    Joined:Mon Dec 19, 2005 1:19 pm

    by Tman » Tue Dec 20, 2005 5:53 am

    Thank you very much for the input, especially since it seems to be a common question. I will do some further research into what size larger jets that I need before increasing the air intake to the machine. I do not want to fry the motor. A stiffer suspension comes first, then I will look into the power. I may not even rejet it if I increase the power by a smaller chain/lighter sprockets (Sidewinder=$200). With just the suspension changes, it should haul me around the trail...PS How hard is it to install the new front springs/shock spring???
  • Old Dude
    Posts:828
    Joined:Tue Jul 19, 2005 11:34 am

    by Old Dude » Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:19 am

    At 6' maybe you should consider BBR triple clamps and rear link that will make the bike an inch taller and raise the bars up about 3/4". BBR makes a good 428 cahin conversion and sprocket kit for less than the Sidewinder unit. All this is available here.There are several post re the 428 chain conversions. Use the "search" tool in the upper right of the message board page to find them. I have a BBR HD spring that I am not using. If you are interested PM me.
    '06 250X: http://crfsonly.com/forum/garage.php?mo ... le&CID=386
    '03 CRF230
    '04 CRF230
    '08 750 Shadow Spirit
    '01 Polaris Sportsman 600
    '03 CRF50
    '04 KLX110
    Kazuma Falcon90
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    ironlion37
    Posts:14
    Joined:Wed Nov 16, 2005 10:15 pm

    by ironlion37 » Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:44 pm

    instead of rejetting u can just adjust ur fuel screw for more fuel.
    05 crf 150f
    uncorked airbox
    removed baffle
    bbr rev box
    trail tech motorcycle computer
    ariete crf logo grips
    one industries honda logo bar pad
  • User avatar
    oldtimer
    Posts:149
    Joined:Fri Sep 30, 2005 6:01 pm

    by oldtimer » Wed Dec 21, 2005 10:00 pm

    ironlion37 wrote:instead of rejetting u can just adjust ur fuel screw for more fuel.


    Yes you can richen the mixture with the fuel screw. However a full 2 or 3 turns is equal to one pilot size and has little effect at higher throttle positions. Consider it a fine adjustment. The pilot circuit mostly effects off idle to 1/8 inch throttle opening. If you never twist the throttle more than an 1/8 this may be ok. But I’m willing to bet you will use more.
    This is not enough if you remove the snorkel and install a higher flow air filter in addition to freeing up the exhaust. And will cause an overly lean condition and may cause engine damage!
    This is not a replacement for properly jetting the bike! This is an external adjustment to fine tune based on environmental changes.
    06 CRF230, BBR F&R Springs, BBR Triple Clamp and Link,BBR skidplate and cam cover, RSW fork brace, Pro Taper Fat bars, Ready Filters, Power up Kit, Airbox Mods and Trail Tech.
    06 CRF80
    04 CRF70
    88 CR250
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    oldtimer
    Posts:149
    Joined:Fri Sep 30, 2005 6:01 pm

    by oldtimer » Wed Dec 21, 2005 10:11 pm

    Tman wrote:PS How hard is it to install the new front springs/shock spring???


    If your handy with a wrench there is nothing to it.
    You have to:
    Remove the front wheel
    Remove the number plate
    Loosen the top fork caps
    Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolts wile you hold the tube so it does not hit the floor.
    Remove the cap
    Holding the fork vertical start to compress the top tube into the bottom to expose the spring and pull it out.
    Installing the new ones is the opposite.

    Wile you have it opened check your fluid level.

    The shock is easy as well.

    Just ensure you loosen the jam nut on the outside of the shock body before you remove it. You will need a big hammer and punch as they can be stubborn!

    It’s really just looking under the bike and removing the necessary bolts and linkages to extract the shock. There is one bolt at the top. Not much to it!
    06 CRF230, BBR F&R Springs, BBR Triple Clamp and Link,BBR skidplate and cam cover, RSW fork brace, Pro Taper Fat bars, Ready Filters, Power up Kit, Airbox Mods and Trail Tech.
    06 CRF80
    04 CRF70
    88 CR250
  • Old Dude
    Posts:828
    Joined:Tue Jul 19, 2005 11:34 am

    by Old Dude » Thu Dec 22, 2005 12:25 am

    If it's just the fork springs you want to change they can be replaced more easily by simply pulling the handle bars, loosening the upper triple clamp pinch bolts and removing the fork caps. There is tension on them so be carefull removing the caps. Collapse the forks and pull the springs. To adjust fork oil wt and levels you really should pull the forks as above.
    '06 250X: http://crfsonly.com/forum/garage.php?mo ... le&CID=386
    '03 CRF230
    '04 CRF230
    '08 750 Shadow Spirit
    '01 Polaris Sportsman 600
    '03 CRF50
    '04 KLX110
    Kazuma Falcon90
  • Tman
    Posts:4
    Joined:Mon Dec 19, 2005 1:19 pm

    by Tman » Wed Jan 04, 2006 1:22 pm

    I stripped one of my fork caps (17mm wrench) and feel super stupid. The metal on mine is as soft as ____. I did not mess up the other one, but could not get it off as well. And did not feel like messing the other one up. Does anyone have an idea on what I should do? I have tried to use a special socket for rounded or stripped nuts Please no wise cracks because I WAS using the right tool for the job.
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    PGer555
    Posts:189
    Joined:Mon Mar 14, 2005 4:17 pm

    by PGer555 » Wed Jan 04, 2006 1:57 pm

    Maybe try a 12 point boxed end wrench. Thats what i use. And i do remember it being real hard to get those caps offf for the first time. Turn the handlebars against the stops and work those caps off is all i can say...
    Image
  • Tman
    Posts:4
    Joined:Mon Dec 19, 2005 1:19 pm

    by Tman » Thu Jan 05, 2006 10:36 am

    Yes. I used a 12 pt originally, and it just chewed it up. The Honda Dealer recommended using a 6 point to avoid chewing the next time.. Anyway, I may take off the fork completely and get a buddy to weld a wrench to it--and/or heat it up prior to removal to get some expansion action. I will have to sacrifice a wrench and bolt but oh well. I do not know what else to do...I just wish that the metal was not so soft. They must put it on with an air hammer (ofcourse)..I am trying to just let others know before making the same mistake.

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