[JosephF]

Hello Everyone,
I'm new to this and my son and I been working on his bike, its a 2008 CRF230F and just in need of a couple questions answered.
1- trying to have the bike run better specially when cold. should I replace the jets? and which one I should use?
2- my son removed the carburetor already and I noticed a hose at the bottom of it that I can't seem to figure out when to connect it.
three tubes go into the carburetor, the 1/2 inch one to the tank, the one in the middle just sits on top of the frame. but what about the 1/4 inch one at the bottom?
any help is appreciated
Joe
2008 crf230f all stock
Michigan

[Back2-2]

Hello and welcome.
I am not that familiar with the 230's so I hope Ray comes along soon. He is the 230 person. But I can give you a few shorts to your questions.
1. If you are having cold starting issues the A/F [ air / fuel ] screw can be adjusted CCW direction to give more fuel to the starting circuit. That is the adjusting screw looking from underneath the carb and on the forward side. Not sure if your carb will have a anti-tamper plug or not to hide it? It is just about where the carb goes into the rubber intake on the engine. Since you stated the bike is all stock you probably can get better starting by adjusting the A/F screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

2. The tube off the bottom I am guessing is right off the float bowl. If that is the one you are questioning that is a drain line and there should be a nipple and a screw to open for the drain.

Hope that helps a little -
Ray should be able to give you a little more insight when he chimes in.

[Aussiecrf230]

Hi JosephF and welcome to the site,

Since the carby is already off this will make your job easier.
I suggest you read this by Rick Ramsey to familiarise yourself since as you said you are new to this bike stuff.
https://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fcarb.htm
Be careful it can be addictive and then the whole family wants a bike each.

Being a 2008 model your bike will have the tamper proof screw with annoying to remove cap as Neil suggested.
Honestly do yourself a favour and get one of these, https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/produc ... ts_id/1362
even if you only adjust it once or twice in the next 10 years your burnt hand will appreciate it.
I would grab the extra bits spring, washer and o-ring, because you will need them eventually or if you drop something.
Make sure the old O ring comes out of the carby and follow Ricks instructions and you will be sweet.
It is still hard to adjust but not impossible.

Jetting.
Firstly take the float bowl off over a plastic tray or cardboard box of some kind.
If the baffle or pivot for the float fall out, they will always bounce to some hidden place.
Use a good fitting screw driver and take your time, it will be cheaper that way.
Once you have the bowl off, confirm what jets you have and post it some we know where we are starting with.

You say the bike is stock, can you confirm it still has the snorkel on top of airbox and the baffle is in the rear of the muffler.
If I read things right Michigan only gets to 85 degrees in summer and freezing in winter.
You may get away with adjusting the fuel screw mentioned above to cover different seasons you can ride in.
The alternative is getting a 45 idle jet and installing that whilst the carby is off the bike. I would recommend probably just getting it anyway they are like $6 and the 230F are cold frogs. If it is a little rich you can close the fuel screw back to 1 turn open.

I wouldn't go playing with the needle yet, just let your son get use to the bike especially if stock.
If the snorkel and baffle are not there, well that will change the plan of attack.

Check things out and let us know how the bike is jetted and whether those parts are there or not.

There is no such thing as a dumb question here, so ask away if you are not sure about something.
It is cheaper and saves the frustration.

Neil - looks like there is a bit of Jim in me with that post - not that there is anything wrong with that.

[JosephF]

Wow! you guys are truly great.
Just went ahead and ordered the new Fuel screw and i just need to purchase a d socket to remove the old one.
the jets in the carb are 102 and 42, the baffle is still in and the snorkel is still intact.i will be replacing the 42 with the 45 (per your recommendation) and hold off on messing with the needle for now.
Thank you for your all your help and i will let you know once we get the bike together.
Happy Easter,
Joe

[Aussiecrf230]

Hi Joe,
You can get the original D head idle screw out with either a pair of tweezers, a piece of small tight fitting plastic hose, just heat up under hot water and push over D head. Once it cools and shrunk should be enough to unscrew it.

Put it somewhere safe as a spare part and compare the tip to the new one when you get it to ensure same profile.

No point wasting money on something when there is always something better to waste money on.
Don't tell my wife that.

[Back2-2]

An electrical Butt connector works great. Heated with a heat gun and pushed over the "D" and once cooled it is tight on there and spins that liberal controlling BS out of there.

[JosephF]

I will for sure try it today!
Thank you,

[JosephF]

An electrical Butt connector works great. Heated with a heat gun and pushed over the "D" and once cooled it is tight on there and spins that liberal controlling BS out of there.

The electrical connector worked perfectly!

[Back2-2]

Excellent! Not sure where I picked that tidbit from but it certainly works. Some people have left it "stuck" on the A/F screw and used it for the minor adjustments need as air density and temps change over buying an adjustable screw.

[JosephF]

Good Morning all,
Finally received my back ordered parts and the bike is running great now!
45 Idle
120 Main
Power up needle (set in the middle)
longer AF screw and 1 1/2 out
removed the snorkle
this is so addicting to the point where I went and bought a 2017 CRF230 so my son and I can hit the trails together.
Planning on doing the same to the 2017 as well.
Thank you all for all the support!

[luisonair]

Hi everyone,

I have a 2007 crf230f with the carburetor broken and I would like to get one but it seems the only one available is for 2003 -2005 year models
Do you know if there is a difference between the carburetor (16100-KPS-902) for crf230f 2003-2005 and the (16100-KPS-732) that is the one for 2007 model? and if there is a chance that the 2003-2005 work on my 2007?

Thanks in advance,

Luis

[Aussiecrf230]

Hi Luis,
Honda changed the fuel needle in 2007. I would assume the part number change is because of that.
Go into the oem part pages and compare bodies or boots to compare sizing.
Doubt it would have changed much.

[luisonair]

Hi Luis,
Honda changed the fuel needle in 2007. I would assume the part number change is because of that.
Go into the oem part pages and compare bodies or boots to compare sizing.
Doubt it would have changed much.

Hi Ray, I'll check it out again, I couldn't find any differences, seems like the same drawings but I'll put attention in the needles, Thank you