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CRF230F 2006 little bit engine modified!!!
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:04 pm
by console_xbox
Here is my modifications(only 900$ without labor):
-Power Up Kit 16012-KPS-921 Full Power Needle, Clip3rd Position
-45 Pilot Jet
-140 Main Jet
-Pro Circuit T-4 Aluminum Silencer W/ Stainless Header
-Uni Air Filter
-Big Gun Rev Limiter
-Air box Vent
-Wiseco High-compression 11:1 forged piston W/ new cylinder gaskets
-BBR Camshaft
-BBR Heavy Duty Valve Springs
Normal riding: Gas 91 PTS (Super)
***NOS Racing Octane Booster 6 Points + Klotz R-50 50:1 Ratio + Gas 91 PTS (Super) Good Results
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I search a beautiful graphic kit for my bike??? Leave suggestions for graphic and others modifications!!!
Please and thanks!
David
Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:38 pm
by console_xbox
Now I have a Amp'd Graphics Kit 2007. Pictures coming soonest!!!
Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:49 pm
by CRF916
console_xbox wrote:Now I have a Amp'd Graphics Kit 2007. Pictures coming soonest!!!
yea lets see this mean machine
Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 3:55 pm
by console_xbox
I would take pictures soonest!!!
Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 6:00 pm
If you install a 15 tooth Countershaft sprocket (with stock rear)you will be a VERY happy rider.
My buddies 230 was modded almost identical to yours,and it works beautifully.
Both BBR and the legendary Rick Seiman who wrote Project CRF230 both endorse it, do it.
You'll get 10 mph more top end, with no loss whatsoever of low end and hill climbing ability, since the stock first is so low as to be worthless. Doug
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 1:48 pm
by console_xbox
Ok, but if I install a 15 tooth Countershaft sprocket, I get 10 mph more top end and probably loose a bit of low end(acceleration)????
Question: What is the top speed for a CRF250X and CRF250R???
THanks
David
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:27 pm
No you won't lose any acceleration.
That is a question that makes sense, but the first gear is so low stock you get zero acceleration out of it. It is so lousy of a set-up that if you were lining up to race that bike starting in second wouldn't be a preferred option like it usually is, it would be absolutely mandatory.
Nobody I've ever passed the word to on this, because it wasn't my idea it's BBR's and Rick Seimans, hasn't been very,very happy they did so.
You need to take a grinder or even a Dremel with a cut-off wheel will do it and remove a little material from the case guard right in front of your countershaft sprocket to make some room. It's worth it. Doug
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:33 pm
JT makes a 15T countershaft sprocket for your bike. SideWinder does too but they are pretty expensive.
Here's some info. from that 'Project CRF230 article :
We turn our attention to the chain and gearing on Project 230. Why? Because from day one, we felt that the CRF 230 was geared all wrong. In fact, we read all kinds of stuff from CRF 230 owners where they actually dropped the size of the countershaft sprocket. Many owners went from 13 teeth to 12 and some even went lower!
Many of these owners rode in the woods and felt they had to have some real grunt down low to navigate around the tight trees and to handle the mud they would encounter. Also, many of these riders were not very good. Savvy woods riders learn quickly that the best way to get around the tight trees is to use second gear whenever possible. Learn to use the torque and roll the throttle on.
CRF 230 with stock chain and gearing
Inexperienced riders panic out and think they need a creepy-crawly low gear when they go slow. All this does is make the bike harder to ride. The power comes on in a big burst and the rider finds himself fighting the sudden lurches. To further the problem, as the bike suffers from uncontrollable bursts of power, the rider uses the clutch and usually forward motion becomes erratic at best, and often results in stopping, or stalling.
Think about it: you have a six speed box, nicely spaced, and you cripple your bike with ludicrous gearing.
The next time you get to observe at a real enduro, listen carefully as the really fast riders go through the tight woods. Their engines are working at low or mid-range, and they're maintaining some sort of speed. They are not fighting their bikes.
If you live in the West, or in an area where you have open spaces, the stock gearing is wrong. Low is so low that it's almost useless. Second will take you up, over, or through most anything. Where I live (in Baja), you're always searching for another gear when blasting down a fire road. On a typical trail ride, your engine should be loafing at mid range in top gear while you're cruising. It should not be screaming its guts out.
The 14 tooth c/s really helped and the spread of power was longer and more usable in each gear. Low was still low … too low. A 15 tooth was then tried and this was just about perfect. Top speed was increased by about ten miles per hour and the spread of power was a pure joy!
Recall how the re-jetting and opening up of the intake and exhaust really helped the bike and made it come alive? Well, the same feeling was realized just by replacing the 13 tooth c/s with a l5 tooth! No kidding, the change makes that much difference. If you're strangling your bike with the stock gearing, or are one of those poor souls who have put a smaller c/s sprocket on, then you owe it to yourself to try a 15. Your eyes will be yanked open and you'll realize just how much potential your 230 has
Doug
Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:58 pm
by gal8x
It’s about damm time somebody else stepped up and made a 15 tooth for the 230. way to go JT!
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:30 pm
by massivemassey
what about on a relatively stock motor? all i have is the power up mods done. will it rob me of any acceleration?
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 4:06 am
Your bike wil accelerate faster. You get no acceleration out of that first gear, all you're getting is noise and vibration.
First wil now wind out to over 10mph (GASP !).
Second will get pulling a lot longer,and you'll be moving right along.
You'll kick yourself for waiting, it is a modification that works great with zero drawbacks. Doug
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 6:48 am
by Malindor
Just a little clarification please...
Either one of these sprokets requires the removal of material from the guard, correct???
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:05 am
by Malindor
This is the part that confuses me; is he actually cutting the entire guard off?
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:21 am
We had to do very little trimming, it took us about 3-4 minutes with a Dremel. Doug
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:34 am
by heybuddy1901
[email protected] wrote:We had to do very little trimming, it took us about 3-4 minutes with a Dremel. Doug
with my 14T front i had to damn near cut off the whole front guard of that cover..
as well as a bit of rubber from the rear.
very little trimming is an understatement.