Please Help With power up kit problem
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    CRF230RiPPER
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    Please Help With power up kit problem

    by CRF230RiPPER » Sat Jun 16, 2007 5:15 pm

    I bought the power up kit that is used to do the upgrade and installed it per this website

    http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/a ... ?id=380749

    My Dad and I followed the instructions carefully and everything went smooth. The problem we are having is the drain from the carb is shooting out gas like crazy...we asked several people what the problem cpuld be i.e. the service dept at Honda dealership and most suggestions were the float in the carb was stuck...we checked that , looks to be ok....the needle looks fine also. We are really stumped here....if anyone has any suggestions or answers as to what might be causing this please help.

    the bike runs perfectly even with the gas coming out , however its way too much to be a normal thing...i mean it seems the carb is just getting too much gas and getting overflowed consequently coming out of the drain tube...


    PLEASE HELP SOMEONE

    Thanks
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    gal8x
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    by gal8x » Sat Jun 16, 2007 8:57 pm

    The overflow valve may not be seating correctly. Pull it out again, clean it and check the seat for debris. The same may be true for the float valve seat.
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    Cantstunt
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    .

    by Cantstunt » Sun Jun 17, 2007 8:53 am

    is fuel coming out even when the bike isn't running, but with the petcock on?
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    CRF230RiPPER
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    by CRF230RiPPER » Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:12 am

    yes even if the bike isn't running it leaks gas...not as much,,,but we actually have to turn the fuel off to get it to stop, keep in mind this bike is like a month old

    we double cheked the float again, and also tested the top part of the float bowl by connecting the gas tank to it and pushing the float pin mechanism to see if it would stop the gas from flowing into the bowl....The gas is actually flowing right down thru where the float connects...and doesn't appear to be flowing thru the jets...It makes no sense. We figured the gas would come thru the jets, but again it is flowing thru where the float connects....is this the way its suppose to operate?

    if anyone has a diagram or pic of how the carb operates / is put together please send it to me or post it.
  • Asmith
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    by Asmith » Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:56 am

    CRF230RiPPER wrote:if anyone has a diagram or pic of how the carb operates / is put together please send it to me or post it.


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    djh65
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    by djh65 » Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:09 am

    CRF230RiPPER wrote: keep in mind this bike is like a month old


    Take the damn thing back!!!
    David
    06 HD450X made in america.
    Faster and faster til the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death!!!!
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    gal8x
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    by gal8x » Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:12 am

    No it is not possible. What you are seeing is the fuel is flowing past the float valve and then running along the float pin. You have one or more of these problems; bad float pin, bad float pin seat, debris preventing the float pin from seating correctly, a miss adjusted float arm lip.
    The float valve is attached to the float with a small clip. That clip attaches to the float lip.
    It’s a very basic operation, the fuel enters the carb past the float valve. The float will push the float valve into the seat as the float chamber fills. The float level is adjusted by bending the float arm lip.

    I think you have a problem with the float valve/float seat. Probably some trash, try cleaning the float seat with a Q-tip and hit it with compressed air.

    the 230 is not listed here but Ken can probably find one for the same price. IMO manuals are copyrighted so I wont post pics or diagrams from them.
    http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/index.p ... e0fc5b91d2

    this is a break down of the 230 carb.
    http://www.crotchrocket.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
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    Cantstunt
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    by Cantstunt » Sun Jun 17, 2007 1:56 pm

    tighten the screw on the bottom of the float bowl near the drain hose. It is close to the o-ring that is labeled 1 with 15 below it in the above diagram.
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    CRF230RiPPER
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    by CRF230RiPPER » Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:04 pm

    gal8x wrote:No it is not possible. What you are seeing is the fuel is flowing past the float valve and then running along the float pin. You have one or more of these problems; bad float pin, bad float pin seat, debris preventing the float pin from seating correctly, a miss adjusted float arm lip.
    The float valve is attached to the float with a small clip. That clip attaches to the float lip.
    It’s a very basic operation, the fuel enters the carb past the float valve. The float will push the float valve into the seat as the float chamber fills. The float level is adjusted by bending the float arm lip.

    I think you have a problem with the float valve/float seat. Probably some trash, try cleaning the float seat with a Q-tip and hit it with compressed air.

    the 230 is not listed here but Ken can probably find one for the same price. IMO manuals are copyrighted so I wont post pics or diagrams from them.
    http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/index.p ... e0fc5b91d2

    this is a break down of the 230 carb.
    http://www.crotchrocket.com/fiche_section_detail.asp



    Thanks very much everyone for your posts, the problem was exactly what you stated "I think you have a problem with the float valve/float seat. Probably some trash, try cleaning the float seat with a Q-tip and hit it with compressed air". This was our problem, and we have fixed this part of it, the problem now is that when i pulled the float valve/seat out it seemed to be in there pretty good...it took a little tug to get it out, but now when we put it back in, the fitting is loose, the float seems to push it back up when filled but we are still spitting some gas out of our drain like its still being overflowed, so we're thinking now its just a float lip adjustment. Is that float valve supposed to be in there snug or loosely?....any suggestions?
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    gal8x
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    by gal8x » Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:49 pm

    The float valve is operated by the float. As you can imagine the float does not exert much force. The valve should be very loose, that is why it needs a clip to hold it to the float. Chances are you changed the float arm lip adjustment when you disassembled the carburetor, or you dammaged the float valve's rubber tip, or both.

    First check that the “drain valve” (for lack of a better word, the thing is not labeled.) is seated and working. It fits into the bowl thru o-ring 15. If you back this out then the bowl will drain thru the overflow tube. If this is working and you fixed the float valve/seat issue, (you should get a new float valve) and gas is coming out of the overflow tube then the float arm lip needs to be adjusted.
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    CRF230RiPPER
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    by CRF230RiPPER » Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:34 pm

    gal8x wrote:The float valve is operated by the float. As you can imagine the float does not exert much force. The valve should be very loose, that is why it needs a clip to hold it to the float. Chances are you changed the float arm lip adjustment when you disassembled the carburetor, or you dammaged the float valve's rubber tip, or both.

    First check that the “drain valve” (for lack of a better word, the thing is not labeled.) is seated and working. It fits into the bowl thru o-ring 15. If you back this out then the bowl will drain thru the overflow tube. If this is working and you fixed the float valve/seat issue, (you should get a new float valve) and gas is coming out of the overflow tube then the float arm lip needs to be adjusted.


    Thanks so much for everyones responses it really helped My dad and I get through what should have been a very simple upgrade. It ended up that after the debris was cleared, it was float adjustment /Lip that fixed the overflow problem.

    During all this we never once touched the fuel "screw" or whatever its called on the 2007, you actually need a special tool for adjusting. The bike seems to be running ok, but not to my standards...im getting some pops on deceleration out of the exhaust and it doesn't appear to be idling the way i'd like it to. I never once touched the idle screw before I did this upgrade as it always ran perfect. The bike is less than a month old. IN the original instructions I followed to do the power up kit upgrade ,http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=380749 the article made no mention of making any fuel screw adjustments other than where the parts are listed it says something about 5/8 turn out. Do you think this may be my problem now? Do i need to make adjustments to the fuel screw device? Also how do I really know if I have the float operating correctly besides the obvious no overflow. Any help would be much appreciated.

    Some of the symtoms of the idle problem is after it warms up a little when the bike is idling if I give it some gas the idle goes up , but remains at a higher level for an extended amount of time, it doesn't just go back to idling where it was previous to me giving it gas...so much so that sometimes by me giving it gas the idle comes up too high and I use to idle screw to back it off. Seems to me its still getting too much fuel??? does this sound right?
    What Don't Kill Ya , Make ya More Strong! - Metallica

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  • Asmith
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    by Asmith » Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:39 pm

    Way to lean on the pilot circuit. Open up fuel screw ("D" shaped bit) or change pilot to a 48.
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    gal8x
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    by gal8x » Mon Jun 18, 2007 9:51 pm

    Fuel/air screw. Sorry forgot to mention that. :oops: Don’t buy the tool it’s too expensive. First work out the screw as best you can. Some people have cut a slot in the bottom for a flat screwdriver. But I like the Crf’s Only Fuel/air screw.
    http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... 4693f459aa
    I can make quick adjustments in the field.
    You should be using a high flow air filter too.
    http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... 4693f459aa
    http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... 4693f459aa
    http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... 4693f459aa

    If you modify or replace the screw, then turn it in until it stops (be genital), then back it out 1 ½ turns.
    Warm the engine up then set your idle a little high, makes it easy to hear changes in RPM. Turn the screw in and out to find the sweet spot. Should be around 1 ½ to 1 ¾ [mine is at 1 5/8]. If it is more than 2 turns install the #48 slow jet. Reset your idle and ride.

    I like the #48 slow jet. I don’t need the choke when the motor is cold and it gives me a faster response from idle.

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