gal8x wrote:No it is not possible. What you are seeing is the fuel is flowing past the float valve and then running along the float pin. You have one or more of these problems; bad float pin, bad float pin seat, debris preventing the float pin from seating correctly, a miss adjusted float arm lip.
The float valve is attached to the float with a small clip. That clip attaches to the float lip.
It’s a very basic operation, the fuel enters the carb past the float valve. The float will push the float valve into the seat as the float chamber fills. The float level is adjusted by bending the float arm lip.
I think you have a problem with the float valve/float seat. Probably some trash, try cleaning the float seat with a Q-tip and hit it with compressed air.
the 230 is not listed here but Ken can probably find one for the same price. IMO manuals are copyrighted so I wont post pics or diagrams from them.
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/index.p ... e0fc5b91d2
this is a break down of the 230 carb.
http://www.crotchrocket.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
gal8x wrote:The float valve is operated by the float. As you can imagine the float does not exert much force. The valve should be very loose, that is why it needs a clip to hold it to the float. Chances are you changed the float arm lip adjustment when you disassembled the carburetor, or you dammaged the float valve's rubber tip, or both.
First check that the “drain valve” (for lack of a better word, the thing is not labeled.) is seated and working. It fits into the bowl thru o-ring 15. If you back this out then the bowl will drain thru the overflow tube. If this is working and you fixed the float valve/seat issue, (you should get a new float valve) and gas is coming out of the overflow tube then the float arm lip needs to be adjusted.
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